Installing Acoustablanket(Linacoustic) to wall ?

[W4ZOO]

Will be starting to install my 100' X47.5 to my existing HT next week.

I will be using the traditional method of 1" strips top and bottom and vertical for the front wall.

Attaching to my walls ?

What are my choices ?

Thanks

[No Clue]

There are a lot of different ways that people have done this and have reported good results.
1. Use a spray adhesive like the 3M 77brand. I tried this and it seemed to work for the most part but it was a few weeks before I put my fabric up and some of the panels started coming off the wall. So I went to # 2 method:
2. Staple the linacoustic to the wall. I was skeptical of this because I thought it would be very obvious where the dimples were. You cannot tell at all. As a matter of fact, it is difficult to tell before you even cover it with fabric. As a side note, be careful about any linacoustic that is not laying flat. If it is sticking out from the wall, it will be noticable when it is covered with fabric.
3. Attach using the roofing nails with the plastic washers. Nail it in until it is flush with the linacoustic and avoid dimpling. The folks that have done this say it looks great but I was afraid it might cause problems if the fabric was pushed on.
There may be other ways and if you do a search for linacoustic, you will find them. I think these are the most popular from my own research.

Steve

[HeyNow^]

Steve,

did you use the 1 inch thick or 2 inch thick linacoustic? Is this stuff have any stiffness to it or does it flex a good bit? How did you attach the fabric?
did you put it on the bottom 4 feet of your walls? That is what I plan on doing and leaving the top painted.

Thanks in advance.

[No Clue]

Originally posted by HeyNow^
Steve,

did you use the 1 inch thick or 2 inch thick linacoustic? Is this stuff have any stiffness to it or does it flex a good bit? How did you attach the fabric?
did you put it on the bottom 4 feet of your walls? That is what I plan on doing and leaving the top painted.

Thanks in advance.

I used the 1" stuff. It had a lot more stiffness to it than I anticipated. It was very easy to work with. The roll comes in a 48" wide roll so I just went with that height. It worked out well because my side walls aren't much higher than that.

As far as attaching the fabric, I used furring strips around the perimeter of each wall that was getting the fabric. The linacoustic goes inside the perimeter and then you staple the fabric to the furring strips. You may want to consider going with fabric on the entire wall to give it a nice clean look. On the top half of the wall, just attach batting instead of linacoustic and use the furring strips with it just like below. That way, your wall is an even surface instead of the bottm half sticking out about an inch.

I attached a pic of one of my side walls with the linacoustic and furring strips. The furring strips are difficult to see because I hit them with the same burgandy primer as the rest of the theater. I did this so you couldn't see white pine showing through the fabric. The spaces between linacoustic areas are for my columns that will hide the surround speakers.

Hope this is clear. I will be happy to answer any questions you have.

Steve

[No Clue]

Here is another pic with the batting attached above the linacoustic. You can see the cutout for my inwall speakers for the back. Notice that I put furring strips across the middle of the wall. I cut out some 3/4" plywood to go around the speakers and also the thermostat. You need to have something to staple the fabric to in all of these areas.

Steve

[HeyNow^]

Makes perfect sense. What effect does the batting have? Could you leave that just bare wall at the top? Does the lower portion already have the cloth on the linacoustic? Or is that the color of the linacoustic?

Appreciate your responses....yours looks awesome.

[No Clue]

Originally posted by HeyNow^
Makes perfect sense. What effect does the batting have? Could you leave that just bare wall at the top? Does the lower portion already have the cloth on the linacoustic? Or is that the color of the linacoustic?

Appreciate your responses....yours looks awesome.

The only purpose the batting serves is to make the entire wall an even surface. The batting is the same thickness as the linacoustic. The picture was taken prior to attaching the fabric so that is linacoustic that you see.
The fabric I used is a burgandy Guilford of Maine fabric (GOM). It comes in a 66" wide roll sold by the linear yard. Since my wall area is greater than 66" high and wide, I used separate pieces on the top part of the wall and the bottom part of the wall. You can see a furring strip running horizontally above the linacoustic. After attaching both pieces of fabric, I used a piece of chair rail molding to cover the seam across the middle. I will try to post a pic of the finished look when I get a chance.

Steve

[DC_Steve]

Are you going to use Crowne Moulding to cover the stples near the ceiling? Maybe an inch or two below the ceiling and throw in some rope lighting?

[curtisG]

Originally posted by No Clue
I used the 1" stuff. It had a lot more stiffness to it than I anticipated. It was very easy to work with. The roll comes in a 48" wide roll so I just went with that height. It worked out well because my side walls aren't much higher than that.

Steve - what side of the linacoustic do you have facing the walls? From the couple of pictures that you posted, it looks like you have the coated side facing the wall and the non-coated side facing the room (the coated side also has some light printing on it every few feet).

Just wanted to ask, as Linacoustic should be installed with the coated side facing the room.

Nice looking room - can't wait to see the final results!

--curtis

[No Clue]

Originally posted by curtisG
Steve - what side of the linacoustic do you have facing the walls? From the couple of pictures that you posted, it looks like you have the coated side facing the wall and the non-coated side facing the room (the coated side also has some light printing on it every few feet).

Just wanted to ask, as Linacoustic should be installed with the coated side facing the room.

Nice looking room - can't wait to see the final results!

--curtis

I installed it with the coated side facing the drywall. It seems like I did a few searches on this and found 3 different answers (facing towards, facing away, doesn't matter).

It came out great nonetheless.

Steve

[W4ZOO]

Originally posted by No Clue
I installed it with the coated side facing the drywall. It seems like I did a few searches on this and found 3 different answers (facing towards, facing away, doesn't matter).

It came out great nonetheless.

Steve

Are you sure ? I don't want to make a big install booboo.

[curtisG]

Originally posted by W4ZOO
Are you sure ? I don't want to make a big install booboo.

I too was unsure which way to install the Linacoustic, so called my HT designer (Dennis Erskine). He said to install it with the coated side facing the room.

--curtis

[No Clue]

If Dennis Erskine said it, then definitely do it his way. I was merely referring to my own experience and it seemed like the only way to glue it up was using the coated side.


DC steve - Sorry I missed your question (if it was directed to me). I didn't use crown in my application with rope lighting because I did use rope lighting extensively in other places and didn't want to overdo it. I have seen pics of others though and it looks very dramatic. I highly recommend it to give the room a little extra touch.

Steve

[DC_Steve]

No Clue -- Thanks for responding. I am only in the planning stages - we close on the house in about a week! So I am kicking around a TON of ideas. I think I will go with the fabric/acoustic treatment aproach ... looks good, helps with sound quality, looks good ... :)

(A little off topic) Someone posted in another thread about stars and moving comets in another thread, and I have been trying to figure out the best ways to cover all the staples, molding being a natural choice, hence the "ceiling rope light" idea ...

[No Clue]

I did cover the staples with molding, just not crown molding. I wasn't sure it would look that great in my application. The staples will have to be covered with something though and molding looks good.
As far as the sound goes, I couldn't be more pleased. I went with the treatments that have been very popular on this forum; covering the entire screen wall with linacoustic and halfway up the wall on the sides and rear. The sound is very enveloping and the dialogue is clear. Attention to the details really paid off. Do your research and ask questions, you will end up with a great result.

Steve

[bmf795]

No clue, I am upset that your room isn't Chicago Maroon. I have definitely considered that color but there is no gom that comes close. I have thought of a burnt orange ceiling though. With the light tray, it would look sweet watching those Hokies go after our second straight ACC championship.

[No Clue]

Originally posted by bmf795
No clue, I am upset that your room isn't Chicago Maroon. I have definetly considered that color but there is no gom that comes close. I have thought of a burnt orange ceiling though. With the light tray, it would look sweet watching those Hokies go after our second straight ACC championship.

LOL I did consider going for the burnt orange as a second color somewhere but stuck to my movie priority. Having said that, it sure has been nice watching them on the big screen when they are on a HD broadcast. If I could figure out a way to get 65000 people in there, I would never have to go to another game.

Steve

[Clarence]

Yep, burnt orange is a nice color, but only when paired with navy blue, as shown here (http://sports.espn.go.com/ncf/recap?gameId=250030259). Not the prettiest of bowl games, and I lost an office bet with a hokie coworker because we didn't cover the spread, but a win's a win.

War Eagle ;)

[No Clue]

Originally posted by Clarence
Yep, burnt orange is a nice color, but only when paired with navy blue, as shown here (http://sports.espn.go.com/ncf/recap?gameId=250030259). Not the prettiest of bowl games, and I lost an office bet with a hokie coworker because we didn't cover the spread, but a win's a win.

War Eagle ;)

I guess we'll have to agree to disagree.

Actually, I was relieved to see the link didn't take me to a website deep in the dark places of charlottesville. I must have missed the war eagle.

I found all of last year to be completely enjoyable, even the sugar bowl. After coming out of nowhere to win the ACC championship in our first year, there wasn't anything auburn could do to wipe the smile off of my face.

Next year should be different. Marcus is back and just posted a 40 time as fast as brother Michael did. We are pretty loaded with talent. Spring football is just around the corner. I expect we will be a preseason top 5 or so. Here's to meeting in the MNC.


Steve

[Marc Ye]

I used this tool. It's the Bostitch SB-150 cap stapler. It staples and inserts a cap simultaneously. It came in handy especially hanging the linacoustic on the ceiling!

[Clarence]

Are the caps the same 1" size as the HD tar paper caps?
Did you do linacoustic on the entire walls and ceiling?

[Marc Ye]

Here is what my walls looked like with the polyester batting on top and the linacoustic on the bottom before the fabric.

[Marc Ye]

Bottom of Soffits were treated with linacoustic along with the first 3' 6" of walls, the remianing half to ceiling covered with polyester batting. If you are interested, I'd be willing to sell my Bostitch SB- 150 to you. I don't think I'll be using it much once the theater is finished.

[bmf795]

Mark, Did you use the same stapler for the gom? Would you just change the staples as to not be using the caps?

[Marc Ye]

No I did not, though I guess you certainly could by just removing the caps from the gun. I used my Porter Cable pneumatic stapler with various lengths from 7/8" to 1/2" staples. It was easier to handle and it could fit in some tight places. The Bostitch SP-150 is a bit cumbersome for the GOM phase, but great for the Lin acoustic and poly phase. If money is tight and you don't feel like buying another pnumatic tool it should work fine.

[rider]

Steve (No Clue),

Your theater looks great! I have generally the same room "architecture" (attic w/sloped ceilings). Below is pic showing current front, w/ 110" electric drop-down screen. (Don't have stage yet, but I put dark carpeting down in front of the screen as in interim solution to solve reflections from carpet).

Re. your sound treatment (GoM fabric over Linacoustic on side walls, GoM on upper sloped walls and ceiling, and built-out columns): how does that work acoustically for the space? Is that combo pretty much a good solution for most rooms, or did you get professional input/design help to determine that?

Thanks.

[No Clue]

Originally posted by rider
Steve (No Clue),

Your theater looks great! I have generally the same room "architecture" (attic w/sloped ceilings). Below is pic showing current front, w/ 110" electric drop-down screen. (Don't have stage yet, but I put dark carpeting down in front of the screen as in interim solution to solve reflections from carpet).

Re. your sound treatment (GoM fabric over Linacoustic on side walls, GoM on upper sloped walls and ceiling, and built-out columns): how does that work acoustically for the space? Is that combo pretty much a good solution for most rooms, or did you get professional input/design help to determine that?

Thanks.

Thanks rider

It looks like we do have similar rooms. Your room is looking good. I like the colors. If you decide to build a stage, it gives you a lot of options as well as providing pleasing aesthetics. As far as the treatments, I treated the entire front wall with linacoustic and only up to ear height on the other 3 walls. The sloped ceiling was left untreated and painted a flat burgandy. I think the acoustics in the room sound wonderful. Dialog is very clear and the soundstage is very 3d. I think the combo of linacoustic/GoM works for a lot of people as many on this forum have done it this way. I did not have any professional input except the things I picked up from this forum from professionals. There are many other things that come into the acoustic equation and this is just one of them. I think you can do very well just on the things learned here in this forum.

Steve

[rider]

Originally posted by No Clue
I treated the entire front wall with linacoustic and only up to ear height on the other 3 walls. The sloped ceiling was left untreated and painted a flat burgandy.

Do I understand correctly that the Linacoustic from floor to ear level is primarily to address bass/lower freq? Did you not have to worry about upper freq reflections due to sloped upper walls?

[No Clue]

Originally posted by rider
Do I understand correctly that the Linacoustic from floor to ear level is primarily to address bass/lower freq? Did you not have to worry about upper freq reflections due to sloped upper walls?

The linacoustic will not address the bass/low frequencies significantly. That would need to be addressed with bass traps, etc.

The linacoustic will help with the mid to upper frequencies.


steve

[rider]

Originally posted by No Clue
The linacoustic will not address the bass/low frequencies significantly. That would need to be addressed with bass traps, etc.

The linacoustic will help with the mid to upper frequencies.


steve

Ok, Thanks. Now I guess I have to start getting to work on this.....

[Ted White]

Just to add a few points. I'd also recommend the 3M spray adhesive. If you pre-coat both the wall and the insulation, let dry almost a minute, and then install the Linacoustic and batting, I think you'll find you won't need fastners. The stretched GOM is doing most of the holding, anyway.

The Poly batting does more than fill a void for surface continuity. After all, stretching the fabric taught would accomplish that. The batting provides some high frequency absorbtion. It's not as absorbtive as the Linacoustic, but not as bright as raw drywall. It has an acoustic function, so I wouldn't omit it.

Lastly, I found that 3/4" furring wasn't quite what I wanted, as the GOM is 1" and the result was a "pillow". I ripped 2x4s into 1" furring, and it worked great.

Lastly, lastly, I'd paint all furring and screen wall studs black, or even something close to the fabric color. While the GOM is quite forgiving (I didn't paint my furring strips) there's the rare occassion that I can see some white wood under the fabric.

[mendes9]

Can anyone PM me or direct me to an online dealer of linacoustic material?

[PAP]

The stuff is bulky and heavy. I would imagine quite a charge for shipping if you bought online. I live in the middle of nowhere, but a 1.5 hour trip to bigger city allowed me to score a couple rolls.

[blipszyc]

Originally posted by mendes9
Can anyone PM me or direct me to an online dealer of linacoustic material?
Someone in another thread mentioned A&F Wholesale. I emailed them the other day and found out they sell by the sq. ft.. A 100' roll of the 1" x47" stuff was around $140, but shipping was approximately $200.

[mendes9]

Thanks for the pm... getting this stuff shipped is expensive, need to buy local. I called 6 local dealers and no one has it, 1 dealer checked with his supply house and they said it was discountinued. I guess I may go with the OC 703.

[blipszyc]

Originally posted by mendes9
Thanks for the pm... getting this stuff shipped is expensive, need to buy local. I called 6 local dealers and no one has it, 1 dealer checked with his supply house and they said it was discountinued. I guess I may go with the OC 703.
Where are you located. I was able to eventually find a local place that not only had Linacoustic, but also OC 703. I found them under "Industrial Insulation." I decided to go with the OC703 since they come in 2'x4' panels, and I only need 60 of them, so it worked out to a nice round # of packs. If I went with Linacoustic, I'd have to buy 2 100' rolls, and end up not using nearly 80' of the second roll. Plus, I think the panels might adhere and stay on the wall a little better, plus, I only have limited time to work on this room in the evenings, so I can do a few panels a night and not worry about trying to rush.

[mendes9]

I live right outside Philadelphia. I should be able to get OC 703, I'll try tomorrow. Thanks

[Toxarch]

Use the dealer search (Where to buy) on the Johns Manville website. Look for a COMMERCIAL HVAC dealer of Linacoustic.

Here are 4 dealers within 20 miles of 19130 zip code:

1. John F. Scanlan
1238-46 Belmont Avenue,
Philadelphia, PA, 19104
Phone: 215-879-4700

2. United Supply
1001 Lower Landing Rd,
Blackwood, NJ, 08012
Phone: (856) 232-0420

3. Lyon Conklin
133 Hartman Road,
North Wales, PA, 19454
Phone: 215-283-9003

4. SW Anderson
60 Industrial Drive,
Warminster, PA, 18974
Phone: 215-494-1990

Be sure to call all the dealers within the area that you are willing to drive. You will find prices from $250 to $130. Call them all to find the best price and be sure of the product they are selling you.

[mendes9]

I finally found some OC703 and installed 1" behind my sreen, and velvet curtains. I don't know if I''m totally happy, defintely have to turn up the volume.. I just don't know if it's too dead...

I had placed some oc703 on side wall, and in left corner only, and I thought it sounded good much better, this weekend I put 1" on the entire wall behind my screen and velvet curtains.. I'm starting to think that perhpas the velvet curtains were enough..

thought's opinions?