Grab these remotes while you can!! Irrationally Priced Clearence! Radio Shack 15-2117

[icecow]

These remotes are on clearance at radioshack for $15.

This remote has special appeal to those who want to control devices without being in line of sight

This 8-in-1 RF/IR remote comes with RF receiver. The RF reciever has an IR eye (IR blaster) embeded in it . The RF/IR remote controls devices directly via IR. It also controls an IR blaster via RF. Therefore you can control whatever the IR blaster is pointing at from the remote even if the remote is not in line of site.

The remote has an lcd display. the display and all keys are backlit.

It learns from other remotes and lets you move buttons.

It allows you to program macros in a straightfordward fashion.

All of the above can be done without JP1.

It has JP1 too (of course)




Check out this thread. Pay close attention to sbhub's posts regarding this remote. Also look for my posts on how to find inventories at Radioshacks.


sbhub has one of these remotes. I have 4 of them as an hour ago.


http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&postid=4157537#post4157537

[mhargr03]

Well done cow :)

[icecow]

sbhub,
do we know how many memory slots these things have for learned keys, moved keys, and macros? do they all share the same memory space or each have their own limits? I don't see it in the manual

[sixt7gt350]

OOS at all Shacks in my area.

:(

(Like I need another remote around the house.)

[plyons10]

Extenders allow you use the available memory (sort of) from other categories.... I doubt you'd be able to use it all up.

I saw this on FatWallet too... but it's actually old news. Cleaned out the Norwalk, CT and Maiden Lane (NYC) stores of these months ago!

[sfhub]

Originally posted by plyons10
I saw this on FatWallet too... but it's actually old news. Cleaned out the Norwalk, CT and Maiden Lane (NYC) stores of these months ago!
The $15 is relatively new news. They started with $27.99, then $24.99,
now just recently (like within the last 7 days) $15. I actually bought one
last Wed for $24.99 and got a price match on Tue for $15 when I found
out the new pricing.

Original pricing on the remote (prior to clearance sales) used to be around
$59.99 IIRC.

[sfhub]

Originally posted by icecow
sbhub,
do we know how many memory slots these things have for learned keys, moved keys, and macros? do they all share the same memory space or each have their own limits? I don't see it in the manual
BTW it's sfhub not sbhub. I don't work for SoniceBlue :)

The default remote has
204 keymove/macro memory
761 upgrade memory
1021 learning memory

The extended remote has
848 keymove/macro memory
761 upgrade/device/protocol memory
0 learning memory

basic keymoves take 5 units of memory each (but can take more when
you use the extender)

macros use memory based on how many steps in the macro

if you use builtin devices, that takes up no device upgrade memory

a way oversimplification for device upgrade memory usage for a
device which uses custom protocol is around 70-120 units of memory.

Using builtin protocol that drops to around 35-50 units of memory.

Using buitin protocol and builtin device, device memory usage drops to
zero, so the only memory usage is the keymoves you configure.

[Bigjohns]

looks like they're only in stores.... none online.

[mhargr03]

Originally posted by Bigjohns
looks like they're only in stores.... none online. Nope, they're def. not online. Just give a call to your local store to see if they have them first though. Of the 7 or so stores in my area one had 7 and all the others had 0.

[xwilliam]

Wow, that really is an amazing price. Is it me, or was it a pretty damn good price at $49 for what it is? I'm about to go pick up two for myself and one for a friend. Thanks for the tip!

[Rex_Dart]

got the last one at my local shack today at lunch....can't beat the price! Thanks for the heads up

[RFontenot]

They had two left at the RS by my office. I snagged one and a bunch of other stuff on clearance as well. Can't believe they were selling a 14' IEEE 1394 cable for $5, new!

The 15-2117 is physically identical to the 15-1995 remote I've used for many years. I paid a lot more than $15 for my 15-1995, I don't regret a penny. I've got a box full of OEM and store bought remotes, but IMHO, the 15-1995 is the best, even before I discovered JP1 and all that it can do.

The 15-2117 has the exact same button layout and rubberized feel as the 15-1995, but some of the functions assigned to some of the buttons are different. The 15-2117 also supports more devices, like ReplayTV, which my 15-1995 only supported via JP1.

Definitely snag one of these if you can find one at your local RS!

RF

[chain777]

I just picked one up. The RF range isn't that great, no where near the 100' that's stated on the package. I only got about 15' out of it until I relocated it in an elevated position, and now it works at least 30' away and upstairs, so not bad and exactly what I was looking for.

Now I can easily control my Replay from my bedroom or back porch, which was the main reason for getting it in the first place. I was all set to get an IR extender and run cables, but this was much easier and a lot less expensive. It'll take a while to get used to the size of this thing, but it has tons of features which I'm only starting to explore.

Highly recommended if you can find one.

[plyons10]

Originally posted by chain777
I just picked one up. The RF range isn't that great, no where near the 100' that's stated on the package. I only got about 15' out of it until I relocated it in an elevated position, and now it works at least 30' away and upstairs, so not bad and exactly what I was looking for.
.

Hmmmm... maybe try another set of batteries. I get much more range from mine. Of course, all I have are sheetrock walls with wood studs and very few mirrors on the walls (which reflect IR, but can block RF).

Sometimes, like you observed, the problem isnt' the RF signal to the base, but rather the IR signal FROM the base to the equipment.

I have two of these things (just so we never lose the remote). I'm tempted to hook the second one up and see if it doesn't improve further the strength of the IR signal from the base.

[MyReplay]

if you live in West LA, California - there are three at the location on La Cieniga and one at the location in Marina Del Rey. You have to ask a sales person to find the remotes, cause they are not displayed. Only the newer units are on the floor.

[JohnHeller]

Is there any way to tell the remote and its RF base station to ignore signals from another 15-2117? Would like to use these in more than one room, but obviously don't want signals from living room operating the Replay in the bedroom.
-John

[schwab]

Picked one up too, but it doesn't seem to support my Onkyo Receiver. I searched through the codes and none worked. Is JP1 the only way it'll happen? Thanks!

[sfhub]

Originally posted by schwab
Picked one up too, but it doesn't seem to support my Onkyo Receiver. I searched through the codes and none worked. Is JP1 the only way it'll happen? Thanks!
I think device code 0135 works for the basic stuff like power toggle,
vol+/-, mute, sleep, discrete tuner video1-5.

However on some of the newer Onkyo systems they started using multiple
subdevices within the same remote so I had to customize the device to get
the Discrete input select for DVD and Discrete PowerOff

http://hifi-remote.com/ofa/codes-amp.shtml#amp
http://hifi-remote.com/cgi-bin/ueic.cgi?amp_0135

I only briefly used the builtin 0135 before creating a custom device so I
may not be remembering things exactly correct.

Which Onkyo receiver do you have?

[sfhub]

Originally posted by JohnHeller
Is there any way to tell the remote and its RF base station to ignore signals from another 15-2117? Would like to use these in more than one room, but obviously don't want signals from living room operating the Replay in the bedroom.
-John
Personally I treated this situation the same as having 2+ replays
sitting on top of each other in the media center. I assigned discrete
unit #s to all my replays so I can select exactly which unit I want to
control.

Robman wrote up an excellent post regarding this in the FAQ section:
http://archive2.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=2153288#post2153288

BTW for all you folks who just picked up the 15-2117, a great place to
ask your questions is on the forums run by Robman at:
http://hifi-remote.com/forums

I don't think I can recall any question regarding remotes those folks
weren't able to answer.

[The Robman]

Originally posted by sfhub
BTW for all you folks who just picked up the 15-2117, a great place to
ask your questions is on the forums run by Robman at:
http://hifi-remote.com/forums

I don't think I can recall any question regarding remotes those folks
weren't able to answer. Occassionally we get a "why on earth did they do that?" type question about some bit of poor design, and those tend to have us stumped, but otherwise we do manage to answer most questions! :)

[icecow]

They have a Portable Bubble Maker cat 42-3081 (not shown online) Marked down from $34.99 to $9.99, but the fan is reaally loud. I'm taking it back

[plyons10]

OK... I was driving down the street with my wife in New Canaan, CT, when we passed a previously unknown to me Radio Shack.

It is of course the fault of everyone who posted here (and especially Icecow), that I leapt from the car (she stopped first) and grabbed the last two 2117s they had on the shelf.

I've already got two... but what the hey!

[plyons10]

Originally posted by JohnHeller
Is there any way to tell the remote and its RF base station to ignore signals from another 15-2117? Would like to use these in more than one room, but obviously don't want signals from living room operating the Replay in the bedroom.
-John

An easier way to accomplish this would be to pick up a 2116, which is exactly identical, yet it lacks the 2117's RF transmitter (little hockey puck like thing inside the remote).

It can otherwise retain the exact same programming bit for bit I belive.

OR>>> you can take apart the "other" 2117 and snip-snip, disconnect it's hockey puck. I don't think this would be difficult at all. In the past, people actually soldered these pucks into 2116s in order to gain RF capabilities. Removing it (or disabling it) should be much easier.

[Cutrock]

Icecow, thanks for the great thread! I just moved to a new house, and found my Replay wouldn't always catch the remote signal in its new location. I had to lean over the bed and twist just right to get it to read. Today I found 3 available 15-2117's in Pleasanton, CA and purchased two at 14.95 ea! A 30 mile drive, but well worth it. My problems are solved! (So there's still one sitting at the Stoneridge Mall for anyone wanting one in Nor Cal bay area.) Thanks again.
cutrock

[asinshesq]

Does 'clearance' translate to discontinuiing? If so, are they discontinuiing the 2116 too?

[sfhub]

Originally posted by asinshesq
Does 'clearance' translate to discontinuiing? If so, are they discontinuiing the 2116 too?
According to RS they are "devalued" which is their term for discontinuing.
They won't be getting anymore inventory once the existing are sold.

AFAIK the 15-2116 is still considered a current product.

[bron]

I got two and they're great.

Thanks to all for the tips and info!

Bron

[plyons10]

Originally posted by asinshesq
Does 'clearance' translate to discontinuiing? If so, are they discontinuiing the 2116 too?

Looks like the 2116 is still up on the web site too, so I guess it's not going away. But they still want $32 for it! Alan... I don't think you use the RF base station anymore, do you? If you want one of these 2117s to use as a 2116, I'll bring one downtown to my office for you this week. I really do not need four of these things lying around.

[mpsan]

Will these 15-2117 remotes work on the RPTV 5040 right out of the box? If not, is there any problem with them learning the keys from the rptv remote?
Not sure any are available up here, but did not want to bother looking if they would be more trouble than they are worth.

[chain777]

Yea, they work out of the box. You'll have to add a few 5040 buttons that the default replay code doesn't support, but the learning function works easily enough to customize it however you want.

[sfhub]

It supports replay out of the box. Not all the functions are mapped to
buttons by default, so you will need to map some buttons by entering
their 3 digit advanced code listed here (ie create a keymove):

http://hifi-remote.com/cgi-bin2/ueic.cgi?PVR_0616

There is no need to use learning at all for Replay to have access to all
the functions. There is no need to use JP1 to have access to all the
functions. Any function listed in the link above is supported out of the
box and some just haven't been mapped to buttons on the remote.

[mpsan]

GREAT...I have 2 on order!

Will look at link!

[mpsan]

The link you gave does not show all of the functions...I don't think.

Is there a listing of all codes somewhere, or do I need learning mode for others.

[sfhub]

Originally posted by mpsan
The link you gave does not show all of the functions...I don't think.

Huh? It has every function on my 5040 remote. It even has Input
cycle, which isn't on the 5040 remote.

Which function were you thinking about? Maybe you weren't used to the
format it is listed in. All the stuff at the top is availabe via the 3 digit
advanced code, but not mapped in the default layout. This is easily
addressed using a Keymove (which is UEI-speak for button assignment)
For the most part you just enter the 3 digit EFC and press the button you
want it assigned to.

You can also learn the functions, but I think that is a waste of memory
if the function is already supported by the builtin device through advanced
codes.

[mpsan]

OK, I guess up/down/left/right are the same. Is there a Menu or Display?
Mine will be at the Local store Wednesday.

Heads up! RS told me to pick them up by Thursday as they are having a BIG sale starting Friday and if I don't get them then, he will sell them.



Originally posted by sfhub
Huh? It has every function on my 5040 remote. It even has Input
cycle, which isn't on the 5040 remote.

Which function were you thinking about? Maybe you weren't used to the
format it is listed in. All the stuff at the top is availabe via the 3 digit
advanced code, but not mapped in the default layout. This is easily
addressed using a Keymove (which is UEI-speak for button assignment)
For the most part you just enter the 3 digit EFC and press the button you
want it assigned to.

You can also learn the functions, but I think that is a waste of memory
if the function is already supported by the builtin device through advanced
codes.

[sfhub]

Originally posted by mpsan
OK, I guess up/down/left/right are the same. Is there a JUMP?
Mine will be at the Local store Wednesday.
I suggest using the "Ctrl-F" find function in IE on the page/link above.
It is all there.

[mpsan]

You responded before my edit. :-)


Originally posted by sfhub
I suggest using the "Ctrl-F" find function in IE on the page/link above.
It is all there.

[sfhub]

Originally posted by mpsan
You responded before my edit. :-)
Answer is still the same :)

[mpsan]

OH, I see my problem. I thought the first few lines were for the Showstoper/Replay.

I did not realize the ones marked VCR would also apply. Is that right?

Thank you,
Dave


[QUOTE]Originally posted by sfhub
Answer is still the same :) [/
QUOTE]

[sfhub]

Originally posted by mpsan
[B]OH, I see my problem. I thought the first few lines were for the Showstoper/Replay.

I did not realize the ones marked VCR would also apply. Is that right?

That is correct, everything you see on that page applies.
The ones below the "VCR" marker are mapped to buttons out of the box.
In general, the other ones above, you need to map to buttons yourself
(assuming you want to use them)

In practice this means every function is available, without the need for
JP1 and without the need for learning.

[mpsan]

Great. I am on the JP1 forum, and have the software. Even bought the few parts I need but never made a cable.

Originally posted by sfhub
That is correct, everything you see on that page applies.
The ones below the "VCR" marker are mapped to buttons out of the box.
In general, the other ones above, you need to map to buttons yourself
(assuming you want to use them)

In practice this means every function is available, without the need for
JP1 and without the need for learning.

[Wayno]

Just wanted to thank whomever started this thread about the great remote deal at RS. I stopped at my local one and got the last 2117 they had. :)

It did a decent deal on most of my compnents. I just had to do some tweaking on a few of my components.

I found it hard to believe they didn't include the Replay Guide built in. There's no way I was going to hit menu and then Replay Guide so I learned the Replay Guide code onto the info key on the remote.

No info/display for my VCR either, so I had to learn that one.

Aspect ratio wasn't there for my widescreen TV so I had to learn that one.

Not too bad only missing one command on each of those and the learning was pretty easy.

Now two more difficult components. The 2 codes for a Zenith DVD player (DVB-318) don't cut the mustard. One does nothing and the other one works partially but the cursor keys don't work so I'll either have to learn them or wait until I get my JP1 cable (see next component)

Now for my AV receiver (Outlaw 950). No code, and nothing in the search library built in. So I'll definitely need the JP1 cable to properly do this one.

Other than that, a great remote. My only minor complaint is the placement of the key blocks. Since I mostly use the cursor keys, guide stuff, IR/QS it isn't too bad. I just wish it wasn't such a stretch down to the transport keys which I use fairly often also.
I'll see if I get accustomed to it quickly. Otherwise I may move my transport keys up closer to the others I use most.

[mpsan]

I will be happy if I can find a direct input for my Bedroom and Den TV's. Punch thru Volume would be great as well.

Dave, from Hartford. :-)

Originally posted by Wayno
Just wanted to thank whomever started this thread about the great remote deal at RS. I stopped at my local one and got the last 2117 they had. :)

It did a decent deal on most of my compnents. I just had to do some tweaking on a few of my components.

I found it hard to believe they didn't include the Replay Guide built in. There's no way I was going to hit menu and then Replay Guide so I learned the Replay Guide code onto the info key on the remote.

No info/display for my VCR either, so I had to learn that one.

Aspect ratio wasn't there for my widescreen TV so I had to learn that one.

Not too bad only missing one command on each of those and the learning was pretty easy.

Now two more difficult components. The 2 codes for a Zenith DVD player (DVB-318) don't cut the mustard. One does nothing and the other one works partially but the cursor keys don't work so I'll either have to learn them or wait until I get my JP1 cable (see next component)

Now for my AV receiver (Outlaw 950). No code, and nothing in the search library built in. So I'll definitely need the JP1 cable to properly do this one.

Other than that, a great remote. My only minor complaint is the placement of the key blocks. Since I mostly use the cursor keys, guide stuff, IR/QS it isn't too bad. I just wish it wasn't such a stretch down to the transport keys which I use fairly often also.
I'll see if I get accustomed to it quickly. Otherwise I may move my transport keys up closer to the others I use most.

[sfhub]

Originally posted by Wayno
I found it hard to believe they didn't include the Replay Guide built in. There's no way I was going to hit menu and then Replay Guide so I learned the Replay Guide code onto the info key on the remote.

No info/display for my VCR either, so I had to learn that one.

Aspect ratio wasn't there for my widescreen TV so I had to learn that one.

Not too bad only missing one command on each of those and the learning
was pretty easy.

I suggest you read up on the previous few posts. Many times there are
a lot more IR functions available than the ones that come default when
you select the device #. These are called "advanced" codes.

All you need to do is perform a "Keymove" and the function is available,
so basically the IR function is available, it just hasn't been mapped to a
button yet.

You should save learning for just those functions which you absolutely
need it for. The reason is 2-fold. You are going to run out of learning
memory after around 20-30 learned buttons. If you ever need to
recreate your remote setup, it is far easier to enter the keymoves
than dig up your old remote and relearn the buttons.

It's up to you how you want to set the remote up and whatever works
is fine, but those are my suggestions to get a better experience.

You can get a list of the advanced codes available here:
http://www.hifi-remote.com/ofa/codes.shtml

[asinshesq]

Originally posted by plyons10
Looks like the 2116 is still up on the web site too, so I guess it's not going away. But they still want $32 for it! Alan... I don't think you use the RF base station anymore, do you? If you want one of these 2117s to use as a 2116, I'll bring one downtown to my office for you this week. I really do not need four of these things lying around.

Thanks for that very kind offer, Peter, but I have 3 unopened 2116 in boxes waiting for the others to break (which just never seems to happen) ;)

[plyons10]

Yep... That's why I bought the 2117s. I figure my current supply should last through the end of this decade and I'm confident they will accomodate whatever AV additions I can afford in the meantime.

Frankly, as long as I keep the same remote, my wife probably wouldn't even notice when I buy a new TV and / or receiver.

[icecow]

Hell, I got another one. That makes Five.

note: this is for two apts: one big, one small

It's a remote community!

these things are sort of like wireless bridges for remotes. I might as well have a unified system.

I might even get one of those IR receivers--->X10 RF signal things. then I can controll all AV equipment and all X10 from the same remote.

I'd do this by making a tunnel from the 2117's IR Blaster to the IR receiver--->X10 devices.

Wonder how all of that would work out.

[mhargr03]

Originally posted by plyons10
Frankly, as long as I keep the same remote, my wife probably wouldn't even notice when I buy a new TV and / or receiver. You made me LOL at that one ;)

[Jeff D]

Anyone with an abunance of these puppies want to sell one? If so send me a PM. This might be a better solution than the $30 replay remotes... better if someone will part with one. =)

I like the idea of the "wife never knowing" about equipment changes. That's funny, I gotta try it!

[plyons10]

Jeff... I sent you a PM.

But I will tell you here that the 2117, while a great bargain and one of the best universal remotes I've ever used, is not actually as comfortable to use as the Replay remote!

In fact, last month my wife was going through the "remote control drawer" and pulled out the OEM 5K remote I had stashed in there. She loved it immediately, and I then went about JP1'ing the thing to control volume and power on my receiver instead of the TV so she could use it for everyday browsing instead of the 2117.

In her case especially, the smaller form factor and more clearly marked keys are a big plus over the 2117.

[GooberedUp]

Definitely sounds like my wife as well. She'd rather sit with 3-4 discrete remotes for all the devices than 1 universal.

[plyons10]

Originally posted by GooberedUp
Definitely sounds like my wife as well. She'd rather sit with 3-4 discrete remotes for all the devices than 1 universal.

Yeah.. but in this case it's not spousal obstinance, but just small hands!

[GooberedUp]

Ah, it's for sure the former in my case.

I'm certainly not married to a tech-aficianado.

[luckychunk]

I found the last 2117 in my area as well... and I had to deal with 'that' RS employee that tried to talk me out of the purchase because I wasn't 'smart enough'. "Why do you want this remote, specifically? You'd be better off with this one..."

I'm a fan of universal remotes, and I'm seriously considering learning all about JP1 in order to use this device to its fullest. I have 3 replays, and 2 of them are stacked on top of each other. Currently, I point my Replay remote straight up in the air to turn on 1 Replay. I press power again to turn that one off/turn the other on.

I have no experience with macros or anything, but it all sounds interesting.

[plyons10]

Well... there's one of these remote threads at this Forum about every 4 months. Each time, at least a dozen new people jump on the JP1 bandwagon. And with good reason.

I personally don't use many of the true "power" features of JP1 and the 2117, like advanced macros or device extenders. You could, for instance, program the SHIFT+DVD key to put all your components (receiver, DVD player, and TV) into the right mode to watch a DVD. We prefer on that rare occasion to do it manually.

But even if you don't enable any functionality on the remote with JP1 that you couldn't achieve via conventional programming, the JP1 stuff is very useful. It gives you a concise flexible user interface to setting up devices on the remote and a way to save that setup or clone it to another remote. That could take so much more time if you were to attempt it manually.

[oldnacl]

Let's all give a hand to sfhub who's been giving great advice on this (and many others) thread. THANKS sfhub!

[mhargr03]

indeed, thank you!

[GooberedUp]

I've thanked him profusely in the past (and do so now) and I think it goes without saying that this guy is a god when it comes to so many of these issues that we read about on a daily basis. It's pretty uncanny how he's right there with the suggestions and answers.

[sfhub]

appreciate it.

[The Robman]

Originally posted by sfhub
In practice this means every function is available, without the need for
JP1 and without the need for learning. Yeah, but who wants to miss out on all the fun that can be had using JP1??? :)

[icecow]

I got a bunch of dumb JP1 questions.

See you soon The Robman

[plyons10]

Cow.... there are no dumb JP1 questions, only dumb JP1 users.

[mpsan]

I even have all of the JP1 parts. Must make the cable...just need to cut the connector off an old ide cable.




Originally posted by The Robman
Yeah, but who wants to miss out on all the fun that can be had using JP1??? :)

[mpsan]

I just looked at the JP1 site and see very few new messages, but now I see that there is a USB interface! However, the tricky part is the 6 pin JP1 end so I may as well go with the parallel port.

Will the software support all of the connectors?

[sfhub]

The latest IR supports all the interfaces.

[famewolf]

Ok...apparently I'm remote challenged..can someone list the steps to assign the Input button using keymove to the tv/video button on the vcr? The manual tells me how to move from one key to another...where do I enter the 215 code?

[sfhub]

First, make sure you device button you are using is configured to be
a "VCR" device. By default the VCR button is configured to be a "VCR"
device. If you are using something like AUX button, you need to first
configure that button to be a "VCR" device rather than Home Automation
device.

See Page 19 in the 15-2117 manual labeled "Reassigning the device keys"
http://support.radioshack.com/support_video/doc70/70607.pdf

Second assuming your button is configured for the correct device, assign
the *device* code to the button using the procedure on Page 9 of your
15-2117 manual labeled "Programming a device"
http://support.radioshack.com/support_video/doc70/70607.pdf

Verify the Power button works for your device.

Finally, to assign "Input" function to the TV/Video button use the
instructions on page 15 of your manual labeled "Using keymover"
http://support.radioshack.com/support_video/doc70/70607.pdf

Based on what you are telling me, you found the "advanced codes"
for your VCR device and it says advanced code 215 is for the "Input"
function.

In step 4, you should press the VCR button.
In step 5, you should press "P" (the green P button in top left)
followed by 215
In step 6, you should press the VCR button
In step 7, you should press TV/Video button

Again, I'm assuming you are using VCR button for your device. If you
are using something else, modify the instructions appropriately.

[famewolf]

So is $15 the cheapest I'm going to find for a JP1 cable?

[Jeff D]

Any of you guys who've made these interfaces comment on why go with one over the other? From Rob's page:
http://www.hifi-remote.com/jp1/hardware.shtml

The simple design by tommy tyler looks to be very simple an could be done with parts I think I have around the house. (well, maybe not the clip).

I'm just curious why go with more complex designs if they aren't needed. I guess that's the reall question, why would the more complex ones be needed?

[sfhub]

Basically if the simple design works go with it. Sometimes the voltage
levels will not be quite right, more often on laptops than desktops, and
the ultra design might be better in that case.

[famewolf]

If you don't have the Revision 5 simple plans dated 11-26-2002 make sure you go to the yahoo jp1 group and download the updated plans..some changes include using 1k 1/4w resisters instead of the 10k ones....plans were also "cleaned up"

[oldnacl]

A big thank you to the Robman who helped me with a shift key move that didn't seem to work. I'll repeat it here in case anyone else runs into the same problem - If you do a key move and assign it to a number key, you have to press the "shift" key twice and then the number for the key press to work. I assigned the 5 input selections on my TV to number keys 1-5. So now I press the "P" button twice and then the number button to shift the input. Works great! Thanks, Robman (Your remote is in the mail)

[keyzersoce]

In the LA area, picked up a remote at the RS at 18th & La Cienega; they have two left. A clerk at another RS was able to run an area-wide inventory check and tell me which stores had the remote.

[sfhub]

Originally posted by oldnacl
If you do a key move and assign it to a number key, you have to press the "shift" key twice and then the number for the key press to work. I assigned the 5 input selections on my TV to number keys 1-5. So now I press the "P" button twice and then the number button to shift the input.
And the reason you need to press "P" twice to initiate the shift is because
if you press "P" once followed by 3 digits, you asking the remote to send
the IR function corresponding to the 3 digit EFC.

For example if you had showstopper device as listed here:
http://hifi-remote.com/cgi-bin2/ueic.cgi?PVR_0616

and you didn't have CA bound to any button, you could just press
"P" 0 5 7 and the remote would send CA toggle.

To override this behavior you would press "P" twice at which point the
next digit would be treated as a shifted button rather than the beginning
of a 3 digit EFC.

For buttons other than 0-9, you can just press "P" once to initiate the
shift.

I believe this behavior is just for the stock remote. Running Extender2,
you can press "P" once for all the buttons.

[mpsan]

I would love it if my Bedroom and den TV's had input select without cycling thru all of them. I will have to get the model numbers (both Toshiba) and see.

Just called Radio Shack. They lost my name and the other store never sent the remotes...but the manager went there and picked them up and was glad I called back. I am on my way to pick up 2 of them!



Originally posted by oldnacl
A big thank you to the Robman who helped me with a shift key move that didn't seem to work. I'll repeat it here in case anyone else runs into the same problem - If you do a key move and assign it to a number key, you have to press the "shift" key twice and then the number for the key press to work. I assigned the 5 input selections on my TV to number keys 1-5. So now I press the "P" button twice and then the number button to shift the input. Works great! Thanks, Robman (Your remote is in the mail)

[sfhub]

Originally posted by mpsan
I would love it if my Bedroom and den TV's had input select without cycling thru all of them. I will have to get the model numbers (both Toshiba) and see.

See this post about how to figure out if your device has discretes.
http://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1744

Many times you can simulate discrete inputs by creating a macro to
change to ch2, then the appropriate # of input toggles.

Some TVs will switch cycle through the inputs of you change to ch2 then
use ch-

It is possible your TV may just support native discrete input select even
if the original remote doesn't have the ability to emit the proper IR for
discrete input selection.

Either simulated discrete input or native discrete input is critical for
achieving 1-button whole device group ON. Also discrete power on/off
is needed (either native or toadtog simulated)

[Jeff D]

mp3 guy, many toshibas only cycle through, even when there were shortcuts the sets seemed very picky about those. Most of the times they are macros to do input button presses quickly.

[mpsan]

Thanks Jeff. I will look.

Yup, you decoded my name...san being 3. After 45 trips over there, I picked up something. :-)

OH, scored my 2 remotes...also had the X10 desk 4 button switches on sale for $5.99. We can always use those. Hard to get out of there as you have to explain that you do not need any stinkin batterys!

Take care...
Dave

Originally posted by Jeff D
mp3 guy, many toshibas only cycle through, even when there were shortcuts the sets seemed very picky about those. Most of the times they are macros to do input button presses quickly.

[Jeff D]

So, I've looked over in the yahoo group and I think there's hope, but I'll ask here in case anyone else is in the same situation. I didn't see Onkyo listed as a receiver option. The yahoo group has a couple models. I'm curious does this just mean I'll have to "learn" all the actions I want or is there hope that some of this stuff is in there?

[sfhub]

You should be able to control your Onkyo w/o learning.

To have full control of all functions you'll likely need to use a custom
device upgrade as Onkyo has a habit of using different subdevices
within the same remote. There are Onkyo device upgrades that
other people have put together in the Yahoo JP1 file repository.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/jp1/files/3.%20Device%20Codes/Audio/
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/jp1/files/3.%20Device%20Codes/

Learning should be absolute last resort and I don't think it should be
necessary for Onkyo.

[mpsan]

Well, I tried the first and it is OK, except the RF unit causes the TV to mute for a few seconds several times a minute. It has to be away from the TV. Will try 2nd unit now. Have not played yet with keys but the PVR_0616 page shows that recall is Jump. I do not see a recall. Also need to add 084 replay guide. How could they not have done that?

Need to play so Volume controls TV no matter whice device I am on.

Also, my 2 packages were opened before, but seem OK.

EDTI...One bad...very dimm backlight. flickers at times, too. That package did not have the RF unit opened...now I know why, they did not get that far.

[Jeff D]

sfhub, yeah I had been looking around there. Gave me the idea it "could" be done, but it didn't explain if those were created by learning or by preprogrammed sets. I'll have to play with it for a while. Now I just need to find time to make all this stuff work. =)

Good thing I have a db-25 adapter all wired up for something else. I can mod that as the old use isn't needed anymore.

[sfhub]

Originally posted by Jeff D
sfhub, yeah I had been looking around there. Gave me the idea it "could" be done, but it didn't explain if those were created by learning or by preprogrammed sets.
None of those on the yahoo jp1 devices folder are "learned" They are
all custom device upgrades. In a few days you will have the JP1 epiphany
and wonder why you ever controlled a device through learned functions.

BTW I don't believe there is a simple way to upload just the learned
functions, you need to upload the entire firmware, which makes learned
buttons even more unwieldy.

[sfhub]

Originally posted by mpsan
Have not played yet with keys but the PVR_0616 page shows that recall is Jump. I do not see a recall. Also need to add 084 replay guide. How could they not have done that?

Need to play so Volume controls TV no matter whice device I am on.

I believe "Last" is the same as "Recall" on other JP1 remotes.

I don't know why they didn't map 084 replay guide by default either.
I guess they thought once you had "Menu" you could get to everything
else, not realizing how annoying it is. Anyway, easy to solve with simple
keymove.

[famewolf]

There is a volume lock feature which I used to make my receiver control the audio for all other modes....

Using the 0616 replay code I mapped several additional buttons including INPUT to keys on the remote. So far the remote has done EVERYTHING I can think of...I like the idea of playing around with JP1 but the first thing I will do is BACKUP my config..thats the main reason I got the jp1 cable so that if the batteries die or the remote does (I have 3 backup remotes) I can reprogram them. ;)

[plyons10]

fame... your 2117 will hold its programming even when you remove and replace the batteries.

mpsan... (and everyone else using the RF base station for the first time)... The basestation uses an analog transformation algorithim for the RF to IR conversion that is not particularly well tuned to reduce false emissions due to background radio noise. What this means is that the base unit is almost always emitting some form of IR radiation (this can be confirmed using certain digital cameras that pickup IR, or using a free IR monitor program and a Palm Pilot).

This background radiation does interfere with certain equipment in unpredictable ways. Before I got my digital cable converter box, this noise would interfere with any IR commands to change channels -- even those emitted via the IR blaster by my Replay. So I ended up keeping the base station tucked away, or pointed backward at a wall, unless I specifically needed the RF --> IR thing, like when I listened to music on the deck.

However, a solution to this problem has been found, requiring a little bit of soldering skill. Here's the full post over at Remote Central . com (http://www.remotecentral.com/cgi-bin/mboard/rc-one4all/thread.cgi?3749) , and here's a brief step-by-step:

1. *** UNPLUG *** the base station from the wall.
2. Pry off the four rubber feet on the bottom.
3. Remove the four philips screws at these locations.
4. Separate the cover and front lens.
5. The board can be lifted off the mounting bosses and flipped over to expose the bottom.
6. Replace R24. It WAS 330K. Change it to a 240K. The resistor is an 0805 sized package -- I used a 5% part. You could alternately solder a second resistor across this one, leaving R24 in place. If you do this, use a 910K resistor and solder it across R24. You can even use a leaded component, if that's more readily available.
7. Reverse the disassembly instructions 1-5 above.

[icecow]

I suppose my $2 soldiering iron is unsuitable for this mod?

[mpsan]

I was going to ask about that. I see that 084 is replay guide. OK, but without JP1, I do not see how keymove can help.

ie: I see no way...at least from the instructions, that say how to enter a key code (other than for a whole device type) and the keymove seems to be for keys already programmed.

Am I missing something here?




Originally posted by sfhub
I believe "Last" is the same as "Recall" on other JP1 remotes.

I don't know why they didn't map 084 replay guide by default either.
I guess they thought once you had "Menu" you could get to everything
else, not realizing how annoying it is. Anyway, easy to solve with simple
keymove.

[mpsan]

Yup, got volume working fine last night...LATE! :-)

Still do not see how to add advanced code without jp1 though.

Originally posted by famewolf
There is a volume lock feature which I used to make my receiver control the audio for all other modes....

Using the 0616 replay code I mapped several additional buttons including INPUT to keys on the remote. So far the remote has done EVERYTHING I can think of...I like the idea of playing around with JP1 but the first thing I will do is BACKUP my config..thats the main reason I got the jp1 cable so that if the batteries die or the remote does (I have 3 backup remotes) I can reprogram them. ;)

[mpsan]

Great...I will have to check this out!


Originally posted by plyons10
fame... your 2117 will hold its programming even when you remove and replace the batteries.

mpsan... (and everyone else using the RF base station for the first time)... The basestation uses an analog transformation algorithim for the RF to IR conversion that is not particularly well tuned to reduce false emissions due to background radio noise. What this means is that the base unit is almost always emitting some form of IR radiation (this can be confirmed using certain digital cameras that pickup IR, or using a free IR monitor program and a Palm Pilot).

This background radiation does interfere with certain equipment in unpredictable ways. Before I got my digital cable converter box, this noise would interfere with any IR commands to change channels -- even those emitted via the IR blaster by my Replay. So I ended up keeping the base station tucked away, or pointed backward at a wall, unless I specifically needed the RF --> IR thing, like when I listened to music on the deck.

However, a solution to this problem has been found, requiring a little bit of soldering skill. Here's the full post over at Remote Central . com (http://www.remotecentral.com/cgi-bin/mboard/rc-one4all/thread.cgi?3749) , and here's a brief step-by-step:

1. *** UNPLUG *** the base station from the wall.
2. Pry off the four rubber feet on the bottom.
3. Remove the four philips screws at these locations.
4. Separate the cover and front lens.
5. The board can be lifted off the mounting bosses and flipped over to expose the bottom.
6. Replace R24. It WAS 330K. Change it to a 240K. The resistor is an 0805 sized package -- I used a 5% part. You could alternately solder a second resistor across this one, leaving R24 in place. If you do this, use a 910K resistor and solder it across R24. You can even use a leaded component, if that's more readily available.
7. Reverse the disassembly instructions 1-5 above.

[sfhub]

Originally posted by mpsan
I was going to ask about that. I see that 084 is replay guide. OK, but without JP1, I do not see how keymove can help.

ie: I see no way...at least from the instructions, that say how to enter a key code (other than for a whole device type) and the keymove seems to be for keys already programmed.

Am I missing something here?
See this post, in this thread :)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=4191859#post4191859

As long as your remote supports the device #, all the advanced codes for
any of the devices are available for your use through keymoves, even if
you are not using JP1.

[mpsan]

Great. I just read the whole thread while you sent the reply. I did not see in the RS manual that the "P" was an option during keymover!


Originally posted by sfhub
See this post, in this thread :)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=4191859#post4191859

As long as your remote supports the device #, all the advanced codes for
any of the devices are available for your use through keymoves, even if
you are not using JP1.

[mpsan]

Hello...me again. For Macros, can I use a combo like shift-VCR for a macro? I have the VCR set to my replay and if it would work I could do a p-vcr to set the TV to the replay's input.

I think that is what is meant by using a shifted key for the macro.

You guys must have a better manual than mine as there are so many steps that are not talked about in there!

[sfhub]

I think 15-2117 is one of the few remotes you can put macros on device
buttons so just try it and see if it works.

[mpsan]

OK, but can you shift a button? I mean, I would like to have my VCR button control the Replay, but a shift VCR could be used to set the TV to the replay input.

I believe the shift is a P before the button and to use it I would hit P-VCR, is that right?

TIA,
Dave

Originally posted by sfhub
I think 15-2117 is one of the few remotes you can put macros on device
buttons so just try it and see if it works.

[sfhub]

Originally posted by mpsan
OK, but can you shift a button? I mean, I would like to have my VCR button control the Replay, but a shift VCR could be used to set the TV to the replay input.

I believe the shift is a P before the button and to use it I would hit P-VCR, is that right?

You should be able to "shift" the VCR button. I'm 100% sure you can
with the extender and 99.9% sure you can with the base remote.

[mpsan]

OK, and I will let everyone know if you can with the base remote.


EDIT
Nope, you can not program the device keys for a macro. Gives invalid and even p-p is invalid. I used P tv/video and it is great...except I would need a delay. The reason is that if I do a tv-2-input-vcr, it goes to TV, selects ch 2, then goes to VCR without switching the input. The problem is the Toshiba TV as it needs a delay as it will not switch inputs until the thing is done with getting ch 2. Perhaps if there is no wat to do a delay, I can do a tv-2-tv-tv-input-vcr. Not sure how long a delay would be for the tv-tv macro step?

EDIT 2...I fixed the delay by going to tv-0-2. That stopped the delay while the tv waited to see if there was a second key!

Also, is there a discrete Replay on and off?

TIA


Originally posted by sfhub
You should be able to "shift" the VCR button. I'm 100% sure you can
with the extender and 99.9% sure you can with the base remote.

[The Robman]

Originally posted by mpsan
I just looked at the JP1 site and see very few new messages Where are you looking? I have a hard time keeping up with all the new messages, so I don't understand what you're saying.

Are you looking at the old Yahoo message board perhaps? If so, we abandoned that ages ago, we just use Yahoo as a file server now.

The current forums are here:
http://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/

[sfhub]

Originally posted by mpsan
Nope, you can not program the device keys for a macro. Gives invalid and even p-p is invalid. I used P tv/video and it is great...except I would need a delay. The reason is that if I do a tv-2-input-vcr, it goes to TV, selects ch 2, then goes to VCR without switching the input. The problem is the Toshiba TV as it needs a delay as it will not switch inputs until the thing is done with getting ch 2. Perhaps if there is no wat to do a delay, I can do a tv-2-tv-tv-input-vcr. Not sure how long a delay would be for the tv-tv macro step?

EDIT 2...I fixed the delay by going to tv-0-2. That stopped the delay while the tv waited to see if there was a second key!

Also, is there a discrete Replay on and off?

TIA
Well I'm too lazy right now to work through the remote's builtin interface,
but I used IR to create macros for selecting the discrete input and then
leaving the remote controlling the unshifted device.

shift-VCR : TV, input1(REW), VCR
shift-CBL : TV, input2(PLAY), CBL
shift-SAT : TV, input3(FFWD), SAT

Works fine, no extender, just base remote. So either the builtin remote
interface doesn't let you do this or you are doing something wrong.
Maybe you want to try binding the discrete inputs for the TV to regular
buttons instead of shifted buttons (mine were bound to REW, PLAY, FFWD
but I don't think you can do that for your TV device because it is defined
as TV button set vs mine which is defined as CBL button set

As a side note, if you need a delay, you can usually get a quick delay
by adding a button which is not bound to any function to the macro.
This is easier to do with IR and JP1, but I imagine you might be able
to do this with builtin remote's interface also.

I don't remember if 0616 (replaytv using panasonic protocol) supports
discrete on/off. 0614 (replaytv using replaytv protocol) definitely has
discrete on/off, but you have to use the "hacked" version of the replaytv
protocol, which means you need to use JP1 (for the discrete on/off)

Power On : 013(OBC) 042(EFC)
Power Off : 014(OBC) 066(EFC)

Sorry, I've been using extender so long I don't remember what the
base remote supports anymore so I have to downgrade my remote
to test stuff out.

[mpsan]

Yes, sorry, I was looking at Yahoo Groups.


Originally posted by The Robman
Where are you looking? I have a hard time keeping up with all the new messages, so I don't understand what you're saying.

Are you looking at the old Yahoo message board perhaps? If so, we abandoned that ages ago, we just use Yahoo as a file server now.

The current forums are here:
http://www.hifi-remote.com/forums/

[icecow]

I had no idea this thread would be so big.

Woo, hoo, I'm the 100th poster

[mpsan]

Sorry, but I am using macro and keymover OK now.

The on/off will not work. I am using the 0616 device and a p-xxx does nothing for the 4 power codes you gave. I know the p087 brings up the guide.

I can not program macros into the device keys either.

Also, I can not change the SCAN key! I hate the scan. I wonder if JP1 will let me do what I want? Discrete codes and all.

Thank you for your help,
Dave


Originally posted by sfhub
Well I'm too lazy right now to work through the remote's builtin interface,
but I used IR to create macros for selecting the discrete input and then
leaving the remote controlling the unshifted device.

shift-VCR : TV, input1(REW), VCR
shift-CBL : TV, input2(PLAY), CBL
shift-SAT : TV, input3(FFWD), SAT

Works fine, no extender, just base remote. So either the builtin remote
interface doesn't let you do this or you are doing something wrong.
Maybe you want to try binding the discrete inputs for the TV to regular
buttons instead of shifted buttons (mine were bound to REW, PLAY, FFWD
but I don't think you can do that for your TV device because it is defined
as TV button set vs mine which is defined as CBL button set

As a side note, if you need a delay, you can usually get a quick delay
by adding a button which is not bound to any function to the macro.
This is easier to do with IR and JP1, but I imagine you might be able
to do this with builtin remote's interface also.

I don't remember if 0614 (replaytv using panasonic protocol) supports
discrete on/off. 0616 (replaytv using replaytv protocol) definitely has
discrete on/off:

Power On : 013(OBC) 042(EFC)
Power Off : 014(OBC) 066(EFC)

Sorry, I've been using extender so long I don't remember what the
base remote supports anymore so I have to downgrade my remote
to test stuff out.

[sfhub]

Originally posted by mpsan
The on/off will not work. I am using the 0616 device and a p-xxx does nothing for the 4 power codes you gave. I know the p087 brings up the guide.

I can not program macros into the device keys either.

Also, I can not change the SCAN key! I hate the scan. I wonder if JP1 will let me do what I want? Discrete codes and all.

I think all your concerns will go away once you start using JP1.

I had reversed 0616 and 0614 in the post above, so you actually need to
use 0614 instead of 0616, but I went back and looked over what I'm using
and apparently I'm using 0614, but with the "hacked" replay protocol
which you'll need JP1 to upload to the remote. I assure you discrete on/off
does work for replay, but you'll need to get your JP1 setup.

If you run extender2 you can place macros on any button of the remote,
in fact all the device selection buttons come default as macros. Don't worry
it sounds a little confusing now, but once you start running it you'll figure
it out.

Also, fav/scan will act like a normal button once you run extender2. I think
by default there are certain buttons on the base remote that have special
behavior. Fav/Scan is one of them. Sleep might be also, I forget.

Just run extender2 and the restrictions you are talking about will go away.

[famewolf]

The yahoo group has 3 different extenders for the 2117...which one are yall using with good results? Is the basic procedure to run IR.exe..backup my old devices....install the extender and then re-install my devices from backup?

Main goal is to be able to control 15 devices.

[sfhub]

There should only be 2 extenders. Personally I run extender2, so anything
I've posted is with extender2.

I think if you follow the README, it'll explain how to migrate your
programming from your current remote into extender2. Basically
run a batch file which will take your current config and customize
extender2.

I chose to skip this step and just load extender2 base functionality
and load up my devices from there. For me, that was easier.

I think the most devices I've run is 11, but my devices are mostly
complicated ones. If you are careful and many of the devices are
simple, you can most likely fit 15, especially if many of your devices
use builtin protocols and don't need keymoves. As mentioned earlier,
keep the more complicated devices on the 8 real devices and the simple
one on the 7 logical devices.

[sfhub]

Originally posted by icecow
I had no idea this thread would be so big.

Woo, hoo, I'm the 100th poster
Well this thread seems to have become the unofficial support thread for
the 15-2117, just like the Buffalo thread became the support pages for
that product.

[The Robman]

Originally posted by mpsan
Nope, you can not program the device keys for a macro. Gives invalid and even p-p is invalid. Without JP1 you are correct, but with JP1 you certainly can, and you don't even need the extender.

Originally posted by mpsan
Also, is there a discrete Replay on and off? There sure is.

[mpsan]

Thank you, I printed the JP1 stuff just last nite! :-)
Now I can decide on the Parallel port I was going to build or USB. My disk cable is only about a foot long, however.

P.S. With JP1 can I make my old 15-1994 doo all we are talking about as well?

Thank you,
Dave


Originally posted by sfhub
I think all your concerns will go away once you start using JP1.

I had reversed 0616 and 0614 in the post above, so you actually need to
use 0614 instead of 0616, but I went back and looked over what I'm using
and apparently I'm using 0614, but with the "hacked" replay protocol
which you'll need JP1 to upload to the remote. I assure you discrete on/off
does work for replay, but you'll need to get your JP1 setup.

If you run extender2 you can place macros on any button of the remote,
in fact all the device selection buttons come default as macros. Don't worry
it sounds a little confusing now, but once you start running it you'll figure
it out.

Also, fav/scan will act like a normal button once you run extender2. I think
by default there are certain buttons on the base remote that have special
behavior. Fav/Scan is one of them. Sleep might be also, I forget.

Just run extender2 and the restrictions you are talking about will go away.

[mpsan]

Well, I will have to do something about a JP1 cable this time. I already had the software, but it has been updated I know.

I can start over. Maybe even make my 15-1994 usable again. Wish my Toshiba TV's had discrete on/off.

Thankyou Robman...never read about extenders, will look.


Originally posted by The Robman
Without JP1 you are correct, but with JP1 you certainly can, and you don't even need the extender.

There sure is.

[plyons10]

Originally posted by mpsan

P.S. With JP1 can I make my old 15-1994 doo all we are talking about as well?



Sure can!!

[karog]

As I have discussed over on the JP1 forums, I have had trouble using the hacked replay protocol with the RF on the 2117. It works with line of site IR but not RF unless the remote is within 6 inches of the base antenna. This despite the fact that the RF works fine for the panasonic replaytv protocol as well as with cable box and vcr from the other side of my house and one floor up. Unfortunately the panasonic protocol is less capable than the hacked version eg it has no discrete power codes and cannot, so far as I know, handle unit codes for multiple units (I have 2 3000 series machines).

Has anyone else tried the hacked replay protocol with the 2117's RF and succeeded?

[mpsan]

Well, I have to make the cable now!

Dave...(from Connecticut)

This AM Yahoo groups are down


Originally posted by plyons10
Sure can!!

[sfhub]

Originally posted by mpsan
My disk cable is only about a foot long, however.

My impression is most people just use CAT5 cable for the parallel port
interface.

[sfhub]

Originally posted by karog
Has anyone else tried the hacked replay protocol with the 2117's RF and succeeded?
It works for me.

[mpsan]

I have tons of that but how do cat5 wires go into the JP1 connector? Will they fit into the cut 40 pin one I cut off the ide cable or should I solder cat5 to those wires. Seems messy.


Originally posted by sfhub
My impression is most people just use CAT5 cable for the parallel port
interface.

[sfhub]

Originally posted by mpsan
I have tons of that but how do cat5 wires go into the JP1 connector? Will they fit into the cut 40 pin one I cut off the ide cable or should I solder cat5 to those wires. Seems messy.
My impression is the 40pin IDE connectors have a top and bottom half.
When you press down on the top half it puts pressure on the wires and
forces them on pins to make the electrical connection. You could replace
the ribbon cable with cat5, push down on top half to make electrical the
connection.

[mpsan]

Yes, that is how they work...just did not think the cat5 wires were as small as the ribbon cable wires. Too bad Radio Shack does not have 6 pin idc connectors. I can get them mailorder for $0.86 with $5 shipping. :-)

Still, no harm sawing an old IDE apart.
I looked at the USB, but see no real reason to use it.



Originally posted by sfhub
My impression is the 40pin IDE connectors have a top and bottom half.
When you press down on the top have it puts pressure on the wires and
forces them on pins to make the electrical connection. You could replace
the ribbon cable with cat5, push down on top have to make electrical
connection.

[Jeff D]

Any place for basic setup help? I've been searching around the fourms and coming up with nothing helpful.

Things I'm interested in.... what if PC only has 9 pin serial, will 9->25 adapter work? Where can I find a basic "test" to tell me if this is working? I have an unpowered remote connected up, with RM and don't see any way to talk to the device in the app. (I need to read more of the docs, but I'm just trying to figure out if the cable will work on any of the PCs I have.... since all PCs have 9 pin serial and 25 pin parallel ports.

In a rush as I'm trying to get this done while the little one naps. =)


EDIT!!!: Holy CRAP! I was curious why there was a MALE 25 part in this interface if it was serial.... Then I READ the design and see this is PARALLEL port. DOH!

2nd EDIT: Ok, figured out IR has the features I was looking for....

[mpsan]

Jeff, the basic cable IS a 25 pin PARALLEL.


Originally posted by Jeff D
Any place for basic setup help? I've been searching around the fourms and coming up with nothing helpful.

Things I'm interested in.... what if PC only has 9 pin serial, will 9->25 adapter work? Where can I find a basic "test" to tell me if this is working? I have an unpowered remote connected up, with RM and don't see any way to talk to the device in the app. (I need to read more of the docs, but I'm just trying to figure out if the cable will work on any of the PCs I have.... since all PCs have 9 pin serial and 25 pin parallel ports.

In a rush as I'm trying to get this done while the little one naps. =)


EDIT!!!: Holy CRAP! I was curious why there was a MALE 25 part in this interface if it was serial.... Then I READ the design and see this is PARALLEL port. DOH!

[mpsan]

I believe the basic IR program has an interface test. hifi-remote forum has link to a beginners guide that is great.

Look for any robman post...a few messages above.

[Jeff D]

yup, thanks mpsan, I was going to delete the original message, but instead updated as to not make you look like you were talking to yourself. =)
Thanks


Ok, this is looking sweet. I just wish in my rush before the baby wakes that I remember to put the HOOD on the cable before soldering everything in... doh!

[mpsan]

Jeff, did you use a disk ide cable and saw it? I have one but it only has an 18" ribbon attached. I have some cat5 cable but it is solid, and phone cable is, I beleve 4 pin. What did you use. I have all the parts (using 1K resistors).


P.S. About the baby, that is why they invented playpens. It is so we can make JP1 cables, or in my case, years ago, get on ham radio or develop pictures. :-)



Originally posted by Jeff D
yup, thanks mpsan, I was going to delete the original message, but instead updated as to not make you look like you were talking to yourself. =)
Thanks


Ok, this is looking sweet. I just wish in my rush before the baby wakes that I remember to put the HOOD on the cable before soldering everything in... doh!

[BaysideBas]

A nifty JP1 connector can be had by gluing two CD-ROM 4 pin audio connectors back to back. In use, just make sure the correct end is used to plug onto the pins.

[mpsan]

You know, I was going to look at that tonight when I got home. I called the local parts place this morning for a 6 pin IDC and he said he had a 6 pin for a cd audio connector. Also, I could use something like that and then use 4 wire phone cable as we only need 4 wires for JP1. 1 and 2 are just connected together and can be done at the jp1 connector itself!


Originally posted by BaysideBas
A nifty JP1 connector can be had by gluing two CD-ROM 4 pin audio connectors back to back. In use, just make sure the correct end is used to plug onto the pins.

[The Robman]

When I used to make JP1 cables, I would use standed flat 3-line telephone wire. (3-line = 6 actual wires). You want standed because you're going to be bending the cable frequently (ie, solid wire would break eventually) and you want it flat (rather than twisted) so that it's easier to connect to the IDC connector.

Before we found a source for the IDCs at mouser.com we used to just by regular HD connectors (from the Shack) and cut them down to size. Mouser has no minimum order and not outrageous shipping. You can also get the 6-hole IDCs from the 2 JP1 vendors:

http://www.hovisdirect.com and http://jp1.filebug.com

[mpsan]

Thanks Rob. I do not know if I have 3 line flat phone wire but if I have 2 line flat, I can use that and short pins 1 and 2 can't I?

Also, I wonder if Radio Shack has any cd audio connectors? The parts place in town has what they said were 6 pin cdaudio connectors for 26 cents! It may be worth it before I kill 2 cdaudio cables. I can check the sources you gave as well. I think IDC would not be as easy with telco cable, would it? I thought IDC was a clamp fitting and the others were for solder.



Originally posted by The Robman
When I used to make JP1 cables, I would use standed flat 3-line telephone wire. (3-line = 6 actual wires). You want standed because you're going to be bending the cable frequently (ie, solid wire would break eventually) and you want it flat (rather than twisted) so that it's easier to connect to the IDC connector.

Before we found a source for the IDCs at mouser.com we used to just by regular HD connectors (from the Shack) and cut them down to size. Mouser has no minimum order and not outrageous shipping. You can also get the 6-hole IDCs from the 2 JP1 vendors:

http://www.hovisdirect.com and http://jp1.filebug.com

[BaysideBas]

The nicest part re cannibalizing the CD audio connectors is that the wires are already attached and are, As Rob recommends, stranded and extremely flexible.

[mpsan]

Yup...but some have 2 shielded cables. I wonder if RS has these...for a $1 or so I could pick them up. Although I am not sure Radio Shack has anything for a dollar any more.

Have to get my 2nd 15-2117 there tonight.

Originally posted by BaysideBas
The nicest part re cannibalizing the CD audio connectors is that the wires are already attached and are, As Rob recommends, stranded and extremely flexible.

[Jeff D]

I started with a large maybe 20 pin header for a board, cut that down to 6 pins and soldered the wires onto the pins. Fearing a very weak connection after putting this on/off for a while I did rev 2 (I needed to do something because of forgetting the hood...). Second pass was done using the 10 pin parallel motherboard from a PC. I haven't yet filed it down, I'm waiting for the crazy glue to dry first.

The first pass worked great, but I'm having a tough time understanding exactly what needs to be done to get the onkyo stuff into the remote. I've looked at the spreadsheet, configuration file for the SS and using IR, I just don't understand how to get the correct data over to IR and how to be sure it gets into the remote. Using the code that comes from the SS the remote seems to take it until it resets at which point the audio button reverts back to the default. There's something about 4 small key moves that I can't figure out yet, and that may be the key....

[Jeff D]

Just finished with the cement on the 10 pin cut down. Was really easy using a dremel, I wish I hadn't abandoned that idea so quickly at first. I'll see how it works tomorrow....

[plyons10]

Jeff.... are you trying to load your receiver onto the original SS remote or the 2117 you picked up?

[Jeff D]

The 2117 was the target. I'm not doing anything with any of the other remotes at the moment... they are all lined up, but waiting until I get an understanding of what I'm doing first. =)

[plyons10]

Jefff... I assume you are coming along on the hardware aspect.

And it sounds like you have identified and downloaded the device upgrade (the text file) for the Onkyo receiver you want to put on the 2117, right?

IS this where you are stuck? You need to use the LOAD button on the Setup tab of the Keymaster spreadsheet to import that text file. Make sure that you select the 2117 / 2116 from the drop down box on that sheet (upper left). Then click on the little copy button (right above where it says "Upgrade Code 0" on the same spreadsheet tab)... this will give you instructions on where to paste the device upgrade into the IR program. That step basically consists of going to the Devices tab, hitting "ADD" and pasting the results you just copied. You should have first set the IR program for the 2117 and tested the interface. You'll now have the new device once you upload to the remote.

[mpsan]

How long can I make this cable? Is 6 feet too long?
I have a spare CD Audio cable...4 pin, and if I cut it in half and glue it together, it would be great. In fact, being 8 pins, it fits against the side and goes on great. I would then have about 6 inches of wire and can solder Phone wire to the ends and run XX feet of phone wire to my Parallel port. If I can get the wires out of the pins I could solder the phone cable direct and short 1 and 2 and the 4 wire phone wire would be enough...dont need 6 wire cable at all.

[Jeff D]

Peter, I did basically what was described... SS set to the right the only odd thing is the device is set to "tuner" but there's no tuner in IR as a choice...

Copy and go to IR where I Add a device, set it to RCVR (no tuner) the protocol ID match in IR, so far so good (or so I think).

The device ID is 1135 and is asigned to "audio" and it seems to work. Upload to remote and when disconnect JP1 the remote restarts. Then the audio button reverts back to type 1024.

From the description in IR I don't need to do any keymoves because I assigned the device at the add stage. But, I'm not sure if that's correct. IR still shows the device ID correct, but downloading the remote the device is changed to 1024.

[Jeff D]

mp3, 6' should be fine for parallel cable which is basically what you are creating. The question is... is the wiring you are using good enough for that. I'd say give it a shot. Of course I've made two of these today because of screwups.... the second time is a snap if you need to do it again. =)

[mpsan]

Well, I believe I have some older phone wire (stranded) so I may as well go for it. PCHcables is just down the street from where I work so I may call him tomorrow and see if he has connectors.

Great prices there too. 24" cd audio cable is 85 cents! He is mailorder but is close to me. Reseller rating of 10.

If he has that stuff, I may tell him about JP1. :-) After all, his only business is Cables!

On another subject, Jeff, since I gave out the GMAIL account(s) have you ever gotten any invites? The last batch I sent was the end of it for me. Still use it to.

Originally posted by Jeff D
mp3, 6' should be fine for parallel cable which is basically what you are creating. The question is... is the wiring you are using good enough for that. I'd say give it a shot. Of course I've made two of these today because of screwups.... the second time is a snap if you need to do it again. =)

[Jeff D]

mpsan, only one invite for me and it wasn't used in time, since then I've seen no more. =(

[plyons10]

Originally posted by Jeff D
From the description in IR I don't need to do any keymoves because I assigned the device at the add stage. But, I'm not sure if that's correct. IR still shows the device ID correct, but downloading the remote the device is changed to 1024.

Hmmm.... I'm not at home, so I can't run it myself until tonight. But two thoughts... can you change the device type to AUDIO in the SS and IR? It would be best if they matched, I'm thinking.

Which Onkyo device upgrade are you trying to load? Name the file and I'll try it myself tonight. Of course, I won't be able to test the actual remote functionality, but if I can at least upload it and get it to take, that would be a step forward.

No... you don't need to do any keymoves, unless you want to change the device upgrade and customize it. Leave that for later. And you are certain that you are assigning the AUDIO button to device 1135 before uploading via IR, right? If so, then it must have to do with the RCVR vs. AUDIO vs. TUNER thing.

[mpsan]

I had about 8. Then no more. Some say the invite link is in another place, but I have not gotten any more.

Dave

Originally posted by Jeff D
mpsan, only one invite for me and it wasn't used in time, since then I've seen no more. =(

[The Robman]

This is what the regular 6-hole IDC looks like, as you can see it is indeed a "clamp" rather than a "solder" connector.

http://www.hifi-remote.com/jp1/kit/IDC.jpg (http://www.hifi-remote.com/jp1/kit/)

If you guys are still trying to figure out how to make a homemade IDC, I would strongly recommend that you all club together a buy a bunch of them from mouser (part# 649-71602-306), so you can split the shipping.

[famewolf]

Can anyone who has configured their 2117 for the advanced replay codeset post an "upgrade" file suitable for remotemaster or whatever I need to load into IR? I'm going to do a clean install of the extender2. (jp1 cable still in transit from Hovisdirect. *sigh*)

[Jeff D]

Originally posted by plyons10
Hmmm.... I'm not at home, so I can't run it myself until tonight. But two thoughts... can you change the device type to AUDIO in the SS and IR? It would be best if they matched, I'm thinking.

Which Onkyo device upgrade are you trying to load? Name the file and I'll try it myself tonight. Of course, I won't be able to test the actual remote functionality, but if I can at least upload it and get it to take, that would be a step forward.

No... you don't need to do any keymoves, unless you want to change the device upgrade and customize it. Leave that for later. And you are certain that you are assigning the AUDIO button to device 1135 before uploading via IR, right? If so, then it must have to do with the RCVR vs. AUDIO vs. TUNER thing.

The file is Onkyo_TX-SR601_RCVR-1135.txt this isn't the remote I have I don't even have one of the xx1 lines, but I figure it's a good place to start. I've actually got a TX-NR900.

I'll try playing around with setting the types to match, but I'm currently deeper into another pressing replay issue.... I will be getting back to this once this other thing gets resovled. =)

[mpsan]

Robman, another source may be a local parts store, Norvac, (no, not Radio Shack). I went to one and they had 6 pin (2x3) connectors and pins for 75 CENTS. These are NON IDC, and are on .1 " centers. Great, and I do not need to play with ribbon cable. I got 5' of 6 wire stranded as well for 17 cents a foot.




Originally posted by The Robman
This is what the regular 6-hole IDC looks like, as you can see it is indeed a "clamp" rather than a "solder" connector.

http://www.hifi-remote.com/jp1/kit/IDC.jpg (http://www.hifi-remote.com/jp1/kit/)

If you guys are still trying to figure out how to make a homemade IDC, I would strongly recommend that you all club together a buy a bunch of them from mouser (part# 649-71602-306), so you can split the shipping.

[mpsan]

Building cable now. I have IR511, RDF's ver 1.17,and 15-2116ex2. Is that all I need for the RPTV 5040 discrete power on/off?

Originally posted by sfhub
I think all your concerns will go away once you start using JP1.

I had reversed 0616 and 0614 in the post above, so you actually need to
use 0614 instead of 0616, but I went back and looked over what I'm using
and apparently I'm using 0614, but with the "hacked" replay protocol
which you'll need JP1 to upload to the remote. I assure you discrete on/off
does work for replay, but you'll need to get your JP1 setup.

If you run extender2 you can place macros on any button of the remote,
in fact all the device selection buttons come default as macros. Don't worry
it sounds a little confusing now, but once you start running it you'll figure
it out.

Also, fav/scan will act like a normal button once you run extender2. I think
by default there are certain buttons on the base remote that have special
behavior. Fav/Scan is one of them. Sleep might be also, I forget.

Just run extender2 and the restrictions you are talking about will go away.

[sfhub]

Originally posted by mpsan
Building cable now. I have IR511, RDF's ver 1.17,and 15-2116ex2. Is that all I need for the RPTV 5040 discrete power on/off?
I also suggest the ReplayTV hacked protocol available here (see Readme)
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/jp1/files/3.%20Device%20Codes/PVR/ReplayTV.zip
(or I think I sent you some files so you can try those too)

Use KeymapMaster to remap to your pleasure:
http://www.hifi-remote.com/files/tools/keymap-master.zip

Also see this post for how to change the subunit # your replay responds to:
http://archive2.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=2153288#post2153288

[mpsan]

Thanks I will look into those links. No, I do not recall you sending me any file.

Originally posted by sfhub
I also suggest the ReplayTV hacked protocol available here (see Readme)
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/jp1/files/3.%20Device%20Codes/PVR/ReplayTV.zip
(or I think I sent you some files so you can try those too)

Use KeymapMaster to remap to your pleasure:
http://www.hifi-remote.com/files/tools/keymap-master.zip

Also see this post for how to change the subunit # your replay responds to:
http://archive2.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=2153288#post2153288

[sfhub]

Originally posted by mpsan
Thanks I will look into those links. No, I do not recall you sending me any file.
Woops, sorry that was someone on the other 15-2117 thread.

[quark2]

The 15-2117 is a great remote, just pick up 2 more today. There are 2 codes for a Replay (614 & 616) Which is better to use? I have a 5508.

Thanks

[mpsan]

So, and I see another question on this...I think you want to suggest replaytv hacked from the above rptv link in your response. That uses code 0614 and will have discrete power on/ Power Off. Will I also be able to assign channel guide to that useless and PITA scan button?

You know what seems to be missing...at least I have not seen it?
Many questions are answerred regarding IR, KM, etc. But is there a complete walkthru of adding a device ...say rptv to vcr button, adding adv codes so discrete works, and mapping to a key. Anyway, I am almost there...I hope.


P.S. Can I do it all with RM as I did not install Excel on this system?
Is there anything I must use KM for that does require excel?
TIA,
Dave

Originally posted by sfhub
Woops, sorry that was someone on the other 15-2117 thread.

[mpsan]

Does IR5.11 let you set Parallel port #? I keep getting no remote forun on the 15-1994 and 15-2117. Cable tests OK with ohm meter.

[sfhub]

> That uses code 0614 and will have discrete power on/ Power Off.

There are two parts to the device upgrade referenced above.
1) device upgrade - table which lists what is bound to each button
2) protocol upgrade - the intelligence of how to form the bits to transmit

When you load the file in KM there will be 2 sections on the main page,
a device upgrade section and a protocol upgrade section. You will need
to cut/paste each one into IR.

> Will I also be able to assign channel guide to that useless and PITA
> scan button?

Yes, you will get that ability by virtue of running extender2.

> You know what seems to be missing...at least I have not seen it?
> Many questions are answerred regarding IR, KM, etc. But is there a
> complete walkthru of adding a device ...say rptv to vcr button, adding
> adv codes so discrete works, and mapping to a key.

http://www.hifi-remote.com/jp1/help/index.shtml

> P.S. Can I do it all with RM as I did not install Excel on this system?
> Is there anything I must use KM for that does require excel?

Probably, but I don't use RM so can't help you there. You need excel and
you need to have one of the tool packs installed. I forget which, but it
should be in the documentation.

[sfhub]

Originally posted by mpsan
Does IR5.11 let you set Parallel port #? I keep getting no remote forun on the 15-1994 and 15-2117. Cable tests OK with ohm meter.

When you select Interface->Parallel it should let you select the port #.

[Bobcrane]

BTW, I was in WI today and was told Janesville, WI Rat Shack still has 8 of these and that multiple stores in that district had units.

[mpsan]

Yup, found that. Took issue to JP1 forum. Ohmed cable and is OK. Tried 2 remotes (15-2117 and 15-1994) and 2 systems and system parallel port pin 25 is ground. Is it possible that my 5' cable is just too long?

EDIT!

Well, today I plugged in the 15-1994 and the interface found it! I did nothing to my cable. Anyway, I downloaded what was in the remote and saved it.

Is there a quick and dirty way I can change the VCR button to the RPTV 5040 with discrete power on/off to test the upload?

TIA


Originally posted by sfhub
When you select Interface->Parallel it should let you select the port #.

[mpsan]

Well, I played with my 15-1994 and added 0614. Discrete power on works but power off will not. I used 15-1994 expander 3 and the replaytv not -pan)from replaytv zip. Did I choose the wrong thing for my replaytv 5040 and I did use RM...works fine!


Originally posted by sfhub
I also suggest the ReplayTV hacked protocol available here (see Readme)
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/jp1/files/3.%20Device%20Codes/PVR/ReplayTV.zip
(or I think I sent you some files so you can try those too)

Use KeymapMaster to remap to your pleasure:
http://www.hifi-remote.com/files/tools/keymap-master.zip

Also see this post for how to change the subunit # your replay responds to:
http://archive2.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=2153288#post2153288

[sfhub]

Originally posted by mpsan
Well, I played with my 15-1994 and added 0614. Discrete power on works but power off will not. I used 15-1994 expander 3 and the replaytv not -pan)from replaytv zip. Did I choose the wrong thing for my replaytv 5040 and I did use RM...works fine!
I'd just double check your steps.
PowerOn is OBC(013)
PowerOff is OBC(014)

If you were using KM and IR, you could just upload your file and I could
take a look.

[mpsan]

I reloaded and it worked. sfhub, I sure like the graphics of RM! In the LAYOUT view you drag new keys to the ones not hilighted in the view of the remote. If you hover on the yellow keys it shows what it is already mapped to! Discrete works! However, this was just a test with my 15-1994...now I will try the 2117! I used code 0614.

Did you ever get an out of range message from IR when saving the file?


Originally posted by sfhub
I'd just double check your steps.
PowerOn is OBC(013)
PowerOff is OBC(014)

If you were using KM and IR, you could just upload your file and I could
take a look.

[mpsan]

I used my 15-1994 as a test device before playing with my 15-2117. What I ended up with was a GREAT extra remote. I will never program these again without JP1....especially Macros. I even have discrete RPTV power on and Power Off.

I even used RM as I did not want to Install Excel on this system as I use StarOffice.


Now I will see if I have any problems with the jp1>>>15-2117 as some have had.

[sfhub]

Originally posted by mpsan
Did you ever get an out of range message from IR when saving the file?
When you load the extender for the first time it will give you checksum
warning. Just ignore it. It will be fine from that point on.

[mpsan]

OK, great. I love the way the RM shows the remote and you can drag and drop...but it is for devices added. My TV is a 0156 and is built in. I wish there was a way to have it show in RM. Is there a tool to use?

TIA,
Dave

Originally posted by sfhub
When you load the extender for the first time it will give you checksum
warning. Just ignore it. It will be fine from that point on.

[sofakng]

Well, I picked up 5 of these remotes based on the opinions in this thread... However 3 of them were for friends and one was for my father...

I've built a JP1 cable using CD audio cables and CAT5 cable and it seems to work GREAT. I've already done a bunch of fooling around with IR and KM. Great stuff!

However I have a couple of questions...

1) Can I enable LKP (long key press) macros without installing the full extender?

2) What is the benefit to the ReplayTV (advanced/hacked) protocol over the regular one? I tried the ReplayTV (advanced) and mapped the "Messages" function to a button on my remote but didn't seem to work.

3) When using the ReplayTV functions on the 15-2117, do the arrows seem to be slow? What I mean is that when I use my original ReplayTV remote, I can scroll through my recorded shows very quickly but with the 15-2117 and ReplayTV (advanced), it scrolls very slowly... Its as if the remote isn't sending the signal very quickly.

Overall I'm VERY happy with the remote though! If anybody is still looking to get one I'd act fast since these are obviously being snatched up :)

[sfhub]

yes, you can run LDKP w/o running extender. See this Yahoo folder for
the upgrade:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/jp1/files/Special%20Protocols/

However I suggest you just run the extender. It may look intimidating
at first but isn't bad at all once you look into it. You get so much more
functionality and it makes the 15-2117 into an amazing remote vs a
pretty good remote.

Also suggest you only use LKP and don't use DKP. DKP is not nearly
as reliable as LKP.

The main reason Hacked protocol is better is because you get discrete
on/off. There are some other differences as well but not as significant.
You can see the full list of functions supported by hacked protocol by
loading the file in KM and looking at the page which lists the functions.

My arrows do not seem slow with 15-2117. Do you have macros or
something else programmed on them besides the regular mappings?
Other than that, try turning off the RF extender if you are using it and
see if that makes any difference. I should say, in general compared to
my PC I find the RTV interface a little slow to respond, but that happens
with all units I've ever tried (9+) with both the stock remote and the
15-2117, so I assume that it is just how it works.

[sofakng]

Thanks for the reply...

I'm very interested in using the extender (custom LCD titles, LKP, etc) but it does seem very confusing...

Can you explain shift cloaking? If I read correctly, you need to shift-cloak your main buttons (eg. Power button, etc) to use the regular function. I'm pretty sure I'm understanding this *COMPLETELY* wrong, but it seems as though you need to create a keymove for every single button?

Also, I can't turn off the receiver since I use it at night time to control my cable box when I'm watching TV by my bed...

[hilbert1862]

What is "input cycle for the 5040?

[hilbert1862]

BTW they are scarce around DC also, but there are a few around.

One of the sales people told me that RS periodically updates the models to correspond to new TV IR codes, but claimed that this one is not obsolescent.

[plyons10]

Hilbert... it toggles the INPUT that you are using into the Replay... Line in, RF Cable, etc...

[sfhub]

Originally posted by sofakng
Can you explain shift cloaking? If I read correctly, you need to shift-cloak your main buttons (eg. Power button, etc) to use the regular function. I'm pretty sure I'm understanding this *COMPLETELY* wrong, but it seems as though you need to create a keymove for every single button?

Also, I can't turn off the receiver since I use it at night time to control my cable box when I'm watching TV by my bed...
You don't need to do anything with shift-cloaking. It is a feature to make
your life easier, not harder. Let's say you have a device upgrade that
has REW and FF buttons bound to REW and FF functions. Now let's say
you create a keymove to place InstantReplay on REW and QuickSkip on
FF, the previous REW and FF functions are still available via "shift-cloaking"
You just need to press "shift" (green P button) before pressing REW and
FF.

I don't know what your question about your receiver is.

[sofakng]

By receiver I meant the 15-2117 RF receiver... You suggested I turn it off, but I was saying that I needed to leave it on because I use it at night time...

I think I understand shift-cloaking after reading the Long Key Press documentation (from 15-2117 extender 1).

For example, if I want a LKP macro on my DVD power button, I would use Shift-Power INSIDE that macro to execute the normal DVD Power EFC code (eg. to turn on the dvd power). Shift cloaking is used to when you want a macro on a button, but want to use that button inside that macro... (sounds confusing to write it out, but I think I understand it....)


[ E D I T ]

I've figured out all of the T_TV, V_TV commands... so now I'm only unsure about the Discrete_ON and Discrete_OFF commands.

Also, can you set the LCD to display ANY name that you want, or only the default device names: TV, CBL, RCVR, etc? I'd like it to say ReplayTV if possible... or perhaps "THTR" for home theatre, etc...

[ / E D I T]

Anyways, one last question regarding keypress codes (from the KeyCodes.htm file from 15-2117 extender 1). It lists all the various buttons (vol+, vol-, menu, arrow left, etc...) but then it has: X_TV, T_TV, V_TV, and the same for the rest of the devices.. (X_CBL, T_CBL, etc). There's even Discrete_On and Discrete_OFF keypresses...

What do they all mean?

[sfhub]

Originally posted by sofakng
By receiver I meant the 15-2117 RF receiver... You suggested I turn it off, but I was saying that I needed to leave it on because I use it at night time...

I think I understand shift-cloaking after reading the Long Key Press documentation (from 15-2117 extender 1).

For example, if I want a LKP macro on my DVD power button, I would use Shift-Power INSIDE that macro to execute the normal DVD Power EFC code (eg. to turn on the dvd power). Shift cloaking is used to when you want a macro on a button, but want to use that button inside that macro... (sounds confusing to write it out, but I think I understand it....)

Oh *that* receiver. Yeah, what I'm suggesting is you turn it off to see if
it improves your arrow button response time. This would be for debugging
your problem. If you have no need to debug the problem then there is
no need to turn it off.

shift-cloaking, in a nutshell, makes the previous function available via
"shift+button". One usage of this is within your macros, but it is also
available if you press the physical "shift" (green P button) on the remote.

I suggest you use extender2 instead of extender1. It is the more
popular extender and should be a superset.

[mpsan]

in the same regard, can I have Long Key Press and double press?

Ie...vcr is my replay (and yes device 0614 with the extender does have discrete power). Can I make it execute a Macro to set tv to the rtv input and turn the Rptv ON with a LONG keypress, and off with a double key press? I forgot what they call a double keypress. On menu. The macro is now shift vcr and works but I like the idea of using only 1 key. Not sure where to set Long Key or double key?

Also, I love the RM interface...looks very good and I do not need Excel.
,

[sofakng]

sfhub, correct me if I'm wrong.... :)

According to the 15-2116 extender 1 (I'm only using the first extender because I can't download the second version from work for some reason), you can only do one or the other...

Here's a quote from the LKP documentation:

This special protocol allows you to execute either one of two key
sequences based on two different key press patterns:

Long Key Press: Shorter vs. Longer than the specified duration.

Double Key Press: Single vs. Double press. (A double press
is two consecutive key presses within the specified duration.)

The way you setup either of these is by creating a keymove... Check out LongDoubleKeyPress.txt and make sure you read it all the way through... They have a really good example at the bottom of it.

[mpsan]

Well, I looked at -2116.zip readme and it seems to say you need no extender at all. I will look, but thought I had extender 2 in my RDF's anyway for the 2117.


Originally posted by sofakng
sfhub, correct me if I'm wrong.... :)

According to the 15-2116 extender 1 (I'm only using the first extender because I can't download the second version from work for some reason), you can only do one or the other...

Here's a quote from the LKP documentation:

This special protocol allows you to execute either one of two key
sequences based on two different key press patterns:

Long Key Press: Shorter vs. Longer than the specified duration.

Double Key Press: Single vs. Double press. (A double press
is two consecutive key presses within the specified duration.)

The way you setup either of these is by creating a keymove... Check out LongDoubleKeyPress.txt and make sure you read it all the way through... They have a really good example at the bottom of it.

[sfhub]

Originally posted by mpsan
in the same regard, can I have Long Key Press and double press?

Ie...vcr is my replay (and yes device 0614 with the extender does have discrete power). Can I make it execute a Macro to set tv to the rtv input and turn the Rptv ON with a LONG keypress, and off with a double key press? I forgot what they call a double keypress. On menu. The macro is now shift vcr and works but I like the idea of using only 1 key. Not sure where to set Long Key or double key?

Also, I love the RM interface...looks very good and I do not need Excel.
,
You can have LKP and DKP, but not on the same button. As before, I
suggest you avoid using DKP as I've found it isn't very reliable. If you
stick with LKP I feel you will be happier in the long run.

In extender2, you define a LKP (and DKP) using a keymove that is bound
to a dummy device (which in turn is bound to the special protocol handler
for LDKP) I haven't looked at extender1, but I assume it does something
similar.

Latest version of IR has builtin support for LDKP. Look for the
Special Protocol Builder button when you edit a keymove.

[mpsan]

I "think" that the version 1.17 of the RDF's has a newer version of extender 2 built in. I looked and ex2 zip is smaller and older for the 2117.

[sfhub]

Originally posted by mpsan
Well, I looked at -2116.zip readme and it seems to say you need no extender at all. I will look, but thought I had extender 2 in my RDF's anyway for the 2117.
You don't necessarily need the extender, but somehow you need to
have the special protocol handler for LDKP installed. You can install
this standalone or it comes builtin with extender2 (and probably extender1
too) The extender fixes stuff like fav/scan not being user configurable
and other nice stuff, so I suggest you just go straight to using extender
instead of futzing with the standlone protocol handlers.

[mpsan]

Great. I use IR511. Will look at Phantom Devices as I did not bother. Still maybe I could use shift VCR for OFF and LKP to turn on and setup TV. Will all 3 of those work on same (VCR) button?


Originally posted by sfhub
You can have LKP and DKP, but not on the same button. As before, I
suggest you avoid using DKP as I've found it isn't very reliable. If you
stick with LKP I feel you will be happier in the long run.

In extender2, you define a LKP (and DKP) using a keymove that is bound
to a dummy device (which in turn is bound to the special protocol handler
for LDKP) I haven't looked at extender1, but I assume it does something
similar.

Latest version of IR has builtin support for LDKP. Look for the
Special Protocol Builder button when you edit a keymove.

[mpsan]

Yes, I planned on using the 2117 with ext2 from the start. I have not plugged it in yet. Played with my "spare" 1994 and turned it into a great rptv remote! I had heard some people had trouble with the 15-2117 and JP1 so I wanted to be sure my cable worked on the 1994 first.



Originally posted by sfhub
You don't necessarily need the extender, but somehow you need to
have the special protocol handler for LDKP installed. You can install
this standalone or it comes builtin with extender2 (and probably extender1
too) The extender fixes stuff like fav/scan not being user configurable
and other nice stuff, so I suggest you just go straight to using extender
instead of futzing with the standlone protocol handlers.

[sfhub]

Originally posted by mpsan
I "think" that the version 1.17 of the RDF's has a newer version of extender 2 built in. I looked and ex2 zip is smaller and older for the 2117.
In case it isn't clear from the documentation, there are 2 pieces you need
for the extender, the RDF to tell IR how the characteristics of your remote
and the actual extender itself. The RDF comes in the master RDF zip file
but also there is one in the ext2 zip file. I'd just use the RDF from the
1.17 set of RDFs. The extender itself, you must get from the ext2 zip
file and upload to your remote before the extender will become usable.

[sfhub]

Originally posted by mpsan
Ie...vcr is my replay (and yes device 0614 with the extender does have discrete power). Can I make it execute a Macro to set tv to the rtv input and turn the Rptv ON with a LONG keypress, and off with a double key press? I forgot what they call a double keypress. On menu. The macro is now shift vcr and works but I like the idea of using only 1 key. Not sure where to set Long Key or double key?
I suggest this methodology which seems intuitive to the non-JP1 users
I've tested it on.

1) short press DVD button - select DVD as active device for remote
2) long press DVD button - macro to turn everything on and select inputs for DVD to function
3) short press Power button (when DVD is active device) - power toggle DVD
4) long press Power button (when DVD is active device) - macro to turn off all devices in home theatre (or just the ones relevant to DVD subsystem)

Follow this template for your other devices besides DVD.

[hilbert1862]

Thanks, Peter.

[mpsan]

I see that now...just an RM upload like before I guess...then into IR511.

I wonder when we will be told to take this to the JP1 forum? Lucky Rob is on Vacation!

Originally posted by sfhub
In case it isn't clear from the documentation, there are 2 pieces you need
for the extender, the RDF to tell IR how the characteristics of your remote
and the actual extender itself. The RDF comes in the master RDF zip file
but also there is one in the ext2 zip file. I'd just use the RDF from the
1.17 set of RDFs. The extender itself, you must get from the ext2 zip
file and upload to your remote before the extender will become usable.

[mpsan]

OK...may be good idea. I actually don't care. Shift VCR is OK by me, but WAF has to be considered. :-)

Originally posted by sfhub
I suggest this methodology which seems intuitive to the non-JP1 users
I've tested it on.

1) short press DVD button - select DVD as active device for remote
2) long press DVD button - macro to turn everything on and select inputs for DVD to function
3) short press Power button (when DVD is active device) - power toggle DVD
4) long press Power button (when DVD is active device) - macro to turn off all devices in home theatre (or just the ones relevant to DVD subsystem)

Follow this template for your other devices besides DVD.

[plyons10]

Originally posted by mpsan
OK...may be good idea. I actually don't care. Shift VCR is OK by me, but WAF has to be considered. :-)

WAF being the primary reason I own this remote! Geez... if it wasn't for us guys, they'd all be living in straw huts on some remote island eating bugs... and if it wasn't for them... we'd all be living in straw huts on some remote island eating bugs without them.

[mpsan]

Yup, as they say..."Woman... can't live with em, can't live with em"! :-)

I looked at the instructions for 2116-ext2! GEEZE, I have other things to do besides JP1! Can I reprogram the scan, etc with just the ext2 RDF and forget the 2116-ext2 zip stuff! Will Long Key Press work with the ext2 RDF alone?

Also, you too, seem to spend time where I was born and raised...Connecticut. First home in Milford, but Grew up in Hartford.


Originally posted by plyons10
WAF being the primary reason I own this remote! Geez... if it wasn't for us guys, they'd all be living in straw huts on some remote island eating bugs... and if it wasn't for them... we'd all be living in straw huts on some remote island eating bugs without them.

[plyons10]

Ya mon... jp1 can be a bit of a black hole. Frankly, I never bothered with any of the extenders. It was just that I didn't see my wife learning which macro key put you into which mode. When she wants to go from watching the Replay to a DVD (which is rare), she just gets up and does it manually.

I'm in Darien, CT now... I work in NYC but I sleep here!

[mpsan]

Well, my wife has the Macro thing OK, but forgets the P-VCR for the replay macro.

I thought a long press of the VCR to turn the stuff on would be OK, but wonder if the long key press would work just using the RDF.

I liked NYC, had so much fun there while growing up. Only 110 miles from Hartford and we could drink at 18!

Still, had so much fun there.

Originally posted by plyons10
Ya mon... jp1 can be a bit of a black hole. Frankly, I never bothered with any of the extenders. It was just that I didn't see my wife learning which macro key put you into which mode. When she wants to go from watching the Replay to a DVD (which is rare), she just gets up and does it manually.

I'm in Darien, CT now... I work in NYC but I sleep here!

[plyons10]

Originally posted by mpsan
I liked NYC, had so much fun there while growing up. Only 110 miles from Hartford and we could drink at 18!

Still, had so much fun there.

And it actually gets better the older you get (up to a certain point, at least; one which I have yet to reach, thank you.)

I could do with fewer automatic rifles in front of my office, but, heck, the good life never did come cheaply.

[mpsan]

Yes, I know. I worked at the WTC when it had first opened. I was a Migrant Electronics Worker and serviced Computers there for a bit, but I was out of Hartford and just helping out for a bit.

Saw a guy at a club when we were about 18. Gread trio...turned out to be Ramsey Lewis.

Originally posted by plyons10
And it actually gets better the older you get (up to a certain point, at least; one which I have yet to reach, thank you.)

I could do with fewer automatic rifles in front of my office, but, heck, the good life never did come cheaply.

[mpsan]

Well, I connected my 2117. When I add 0614 hacked, my discrete power is ok. But, how do I add CA? In 0616 it is code 057. Also, I used a non extender version. I tried the extender2 RDF and I reassigned the SCAN button, and it works, but the red light shows the scan keeps going! Do I NEED the 2116-ext2 as well if I don't care about long key press for now?

I do have a 5040, so does this mean with 0614 I can not add CA?

EDIT, was it as easy as adding code 091 using RM's function add? WOW, if this works I will upload it tomorrow to my remote but still don't get the SCAN reassign trick. I just want it to be channel guide.

EDIT 2! Yes, it was that easy, as I just added code 091 CA on my 1994. I am liking RM a lot!

[sfhub]

Originally posted by mpsan
Well, I connected my 2117. When I add 0614 hacked, my discrete power is ok. But, how do I add CA? In 0616 it is code 057. Also, I used a non extender version. I tried the extender2 RDF and I reassigned the SCAN button, and it works, but the red light shows the scan keeps going! Do I NEED the 2116-ext2 as well if I don't care about long key press for now?

I do have a 5040, so does this mean with 0614 I can not add CA?
For the hacked protocol, Commercial Advance is OBC(043) EFC(091)
I'm using it now, no problems at all.

I probably wasn't clear, the RDF file will just tell IR the capabilities of
your remote, by itself, it will not give your remote any of the capabilities
of extender2, it just makes IR think your remote has those capabilities.
I'm not sure if you are confusing the RDF for extender2 with the actual
extender2.

The extender2 zip file comes with a file you load into IR. If properly
loaded into IR, you will a bunch of placeholder devices like TV:1800
MISC:1103, etc.

After you upload extender2 to remote, the first button you need to
press is "Power". This will enable the extender and you will see
"SUCCESS" on the LCD screen. From that point on the extender is
actually running.

I'm guessing maybe you didn't enable the extender after uploading?
It has to be done each time you upload something to the remote,
but once enabled, it continues to run, so no more enabling is necessary.

[icecow]

Within the abyss that lies beyond the deepest catacombs of hell swirls a circle of power with two ends that never connect and have never been seen no matter what direction you travel no matter how far. And if your senses are overactive from lack of food and sleep when the darkness deepens to it's newest shade and if you listen with harrow you can hear whispered the letters P, J, and the number 1.

[size=1]Brought to you by the letter J[/size]

[Jeff D]

Originally posted by mpsan
I liked NYC, had so much fun there while growing up. Only 110 miles from Hartford and we could drink at 18!


And I had to drive to VT to get drinks at 18, had to love being grandfathered in to something at 18! I don't think I was alone as Adam Sandler had a skit talking about doing the same thing.

I need to find time to get my 2117 working.

Peter, did you try the onkyo on your remote?

[plyons10]

Jeff... I wasn't sure which Onkyo upgrade you were using. I was able to load any of them into IR, but I remember you were too.

Which file wasn't taking on the remote???

If I can get it to upload I'll save the config and send it to you.

[mpsan]

To VT from where? :-)

Also, Jeff, I moved to Portland from Saratoga, CA, so we must be following each other around. Did you ever live in Denver? :-)
Originally posted by Jeff D
And I had to drive to VT to get drinks at 18, had to love being grandfathered in to something at 18! I don't think I was alone as Adam Sandler had a skit talking about doing the same thing.

I need to find time to get my 2117 working.

Peter, did you try the onkyo on your remote?

[mpsan]

Well, I did not load the 2116-ex2 file (s) only the RDF as you said. BUT, it was not an oversite, I wondered if the rdf would give me anything. Seems from reading the ext doc that it was a mess to get going, or is this a case where the instructions are worse than the reality?

I did, however figure out adding 091 to the 0614 as it is not on the button map.

Still, do not understand all the device buttons on the extender of scan usage but will look again, as that is all that is left.



Originally posted by sfhub
For the hacked protocol, Commercial Advance is OBC(043) EFC(091)
I'm using it now, no problems at all.

I probably wasn't clear, the RDF file will just tell IR the capabilities of
your remote, by itself, it will not give your remote any of the capabilities
of extender2, it just makes IR think your remote has those capabilities.
I'm not sure if you are confusing the RDF for extender2 with the actual
extender2.

The extender2 zip file comes with a file you load into IR. If properly
loaded into IR, you will a bunch of placeholder devices like TV:1800
MISC:1103, etc.

After you upload extender2 to remote, the first button you need to
press is "Power". This will enable the extender and you will see
"SUCCESS" on the LCD screen. From that point on the extender is
actually running.

I'm guessing maybe you didn't enable the extender after uploading?
It has to be done each time you upload something to the remote,
but once enabled, it continues to run, so no more enabling is necessary.

[sfhub]

Originally posted by mpsan
Well, I did not load the 2116-ex2 file (s) only the RDF as you said. BUT, it was not an oversite, I wondered if the rdf would give me anything. Seems from reading the ext doc that it was a mess to get going, or is this a case where the instructions are worse than the reality?
IMO the instructions are much worse than reality.

I suggest you backup your current remote settings so there are no worries
and you can get back to your current config within seconds.

Then I suggest you load up the ext2 IR file w/o any modification (skip all
the steps in the readme about running batch files)

Now just add a simple device like your Replay upgrade. The procedure
should be the same as adding the device to the base (non-extender)
remote. Default macros already exist in the default ext2 IR file so device
selection is all taken care of.

Really if you are comfortable adding a replay device to IR in the base
remote, you shouldn't have any difficulty with the extender to get the
same functionality (except you'll have fav/scan usable again with little
to no work)

Then as you get comfortable with the ext2, you can experiment with
the features.

[mpsan]

Great, I will try it. Heck with RM I even added code 091 from the 0614 device sheet I found. I wonder why that key was not on there and the 0616 code did not, of course work. I will try what you say. Will a macro on the vcr key work with what you said or do I need to enable more for the Macro and Long Key Press?

I have this backed up Ok. I do have 1 strange issue but is OK. The 1994 is no issue with the interface but the 2117 can not be found the first time it is connected...if I separate a battery for a second and pull my thumbnail out, it then works as long as the jp1 is connected. :-)

Anyway, can I hit power to activate the ext2 even while the jp1 is connected?


Originally posted by sfhub
IMO the instructions are much worse than reality.

I suggest you backup your current remote settings so there are no worries
and you can get back to your current config within seconds.

Then I suggest you load up the ext2 IR file w/o any modification (skip all
the steps in the readme about running batch files)

Now just add a simple device like your Replay upgrade. The procedure
should be the same as adding the device to the base (non-extender)
remote. Default macros already exist in the default ext2 IR file so device
selection is all taken care of.

Really if you are comfortable adding a replay device to IR in the base
remote, you shouldn't have any difficulty with the extender to get the
same functionality (except you'll have fav/scan usable again with little
to no work)

Then as you get comfortable with the ext2, you can experiment with
the features.

[sfhub]

Originally posted by mpsan
Great, I will try it. Heck with RM I even added code 091 from the 0614 device sheet I found. I wonder why that key was not on there and the 0616 code did not, of course work. I will try what you say.
...
Will a macro on the vcr key work with what you said or do I need to enable more for the Macro and Long Key Press?
...
Anyway, can I hit power to activate the ext2 even while the jp1 is connected?
I think the hacked protocol zip file was created before CA was popular
and as an oversight wasn't updated.

Once you start running ext2, all the device select buttons are by default
macros. You can just add what you want to the existing macros, or you
can follow the philosophy I listed above, or use whatever makes most
sense for you.

Yes, you can activate the extender while JP1 is plugged in (at least I
know you can for 15-2117, don't know about other JP1 remotes) It
is very convenient to test your settings w/o removing the cable. I will
usually program the remote from my laptop, in front of home theatre
and immediately enable ext2 and try changes. If it doesn't work, just
make some mods and upload again, never needing to remove cable.

[mpsan]

OH, I see the Macros. I see that the device keys are macros and end in a call to phantom 1...so I guess I could add on if I wish...not sure how many phantom keys are defined.


So, if VCR is set to 0614 with CA added, I can find the Macro and add discrete power on as well, as TV input?

I have a laptop, but don't use it for much except programming my IRIQ remote, and my "way to expensive" Meridian Surround proc!

Originally posted by sfhub
I think the hacked protocol zip file was created before CA was popular
and as an oversight wasn't updated.

Once you start running ext2, all the device select buttons are by default
macros. You can just add what you want to the existing macros, or you
can follow the philosophy I listed above, or use whatever makes most
sense for you.

Yes, you can activate the extender while JP1 is plugged in (at least I
know you can for 15-2117, don't know about other JP1 remotes) It
is very convenient to test your settings w/o removing the cable. I will
usually program the remote from my laptop, in front of home theatre
and immediately enable ext2 and try changes. If it doesn't work, just
make some mods and upload again, never needing to remove cable.

[sfhub]

Originally posted by mpsan
OH, I see the Macros. I see that the device keys are macros and end in a call to phantom 1...so I guess I could add on if I wish...not sure how many phantom keys are defined.

So, if VCR is set to 0614 with CA added, I can find the Macro and add discrete power on as well, as TV input?
There are 5 phantoms, but don't feel like you need a phantom to define
a macro. The macro is actually on the device key, which calls a nested
macro on "phantom1". The reason is to avoid duplicate work because
the operations in "phantom1" are common to all device select operations.

You can add macro steps direct to the VCR device select button macro if
you want. Depending on what you want to do, you might want to add
before or after the phantom1 call or at the beginning of the macro.

Yes, you can go to the Macros panel in IR, locate the macro for "VCR"
and add DiscretePowerOn, make sure you have the appropriate DEV_
before the DiscretePowerOn, for example

DEV_TV; DiscreteON; DiscreteInput2; DEV_VCR; DiscreteON; phantom1;

DiscreteInput2 would be replaced with whatever you have the discrete
input select assigned to.

[mpsan]

Ok, will try later. Believe it or not I am working! :-)

I notice the 0614 discrete power is not on a key of that name but, by default, is Power and sleep. I will play with that too. Sure wish I could find discrete power for Toshiba TV's! I was somewhat surprised to see that IR loads in ext2. I thought RM was needed, but, in fact only IR loads it in. Also the features are not further adds but actually text help files.

If anyone is reading this far, does anyone on this thread need a gmail invite?




Originally posted by sfhub
There are 5 phantoms, but don't feel like you need a phantom to define
a macro. The macro is actually on the device key, which calls a nested
macro on "phantom1". The reason is to avoid duplicate work because
the operations in "phantom1" are common to all device select operations.

You can add macro steps direct to the VCR device select button macro if
you want. Depending on what you want to do, you might want to add
before or after the phantom1 call or at the beginning of the macro.

Yes, you can go to the Macros panel in IR, locate the macro for "VCR"
and add DiscretePowerOn, make sure you have the appropriate DEV_
before the DiscretePowerOn, for example

DEV_TV; DiscreteON; DiscreteInput2; DEV_VCR; DiscreteON; phantom1;

DiscreteInput2 would be replaced with whatever you have the discrete
input select assigned to.

[trancer23]

my toshiba tv works with discrete power on and off

On is OBC 126, EFC 006
Off is OBC 127, EFC 010

to test put remote in tv mode (with appropriate setup code)

hit p (setup) then type the efc , i.e. 006 and hold the last digit

should work on most newer toshibas

[trancer23]

my toshiba tv works with discrete power on and off

On is OBC 126, EFC 006
Off is OBC 127, EFC 010

to test put remote in tv mode (with appropriate setup code)

hit p (setup) then type the efc , i.e. 006 and hold the last digit

should work on most newer toshibas

[mpsan]

Thank you. I had seen those and they do not work. The BR and DEN have older Toshiba TV's BR is CN32E90 series.

Originally posted by trancer23
my toshiba tv works with discrete power on and off

On is OBC 126, EFC 006
Off is OBC 127, EFC 010

to test put remote in tv mode (with appropriate setup code)

hit p (setup) then type the efc , i.e. 006 and hold the last digit

should work on most newer toshibas

[himey]

Total newb question...
I just picked up this remote over the weekend. It took the codes for all my devices except 1 (Technics SH-AC500D processor). The power worked when I had it search but nothing else. also it won't learn any of the buttons on the processor either?
What would be the best way to go about getting this thing to either learn the buttons individually or the equipment code?

I am very surprised it didn't work out of the box because my remote that came with my SA cable box works fine with code 0521. Thanks,Eric

[mpsan]

Did you try the codes on Page 48, setup codes for receivers?
Also found this..

Technics SH-AC500D decoder (AMP/AUX 0518)
022 Power on
024 Power on/off
026 Power off


Originally posted by himey
Total newb question...
I just picked up this remote over the weekend. It took the codes for all my devices except 1 (Technics SH-AC500D processor). The power worked when I had it search but nothing else. also it won't learn any of the buttons on the processor either?
What would be the best way to go about getting this thing to either learn the buttons individually or the equipment code?

I am very surprised it didn't work out of the box because my remote that came with my SA cable box works fine with code 0521. Thanks,Eric

[sfhub]

Originally posted by mpsan
Sure wish I could find discrete power for Toshiba TV's!
If discretes aren't available for your Toshiba TV, since you are using
extender, it's about time to read up on ToadTogs. These will let you
(among other things) simulate discrete on/off using just power toggle.
At first, I was skeptical about the thing getting out of sync, but it has
worked surprisingly well for everything I've tried it on.

[mpsan]

Yeah...I read that and I, too, was afraid of it getting out of sync. I may try it...having nothing to loose.

Can we use a code that is not assigned to a key? I mean, I have power off on the vcr (0614) set to sleep. Any way to assign it to a nonkey...perhaps I need to read phantom keys, etc.

I created my file to upload when I get a chance and have ext2.RDF and ext2.txt and added replaytv.txt (via RM). I made channel guide scan, and added CA. Now we will see if it works.

I can save the current code, upload my new one and hit power and it should be all set with clock set. I think that's it. Then I can play with more macros and LCD names. :-)


My first test will be to see if scan brings up the channel guide without the red light doing it every few seconds!

Originally posted by sfhub
If discretes aren't available for your Toshiba TV, since you are using
extender, it's about time to read up on ToadTogs. These will let you
(among other things) simulate discrete on/off using just power toggle.
At first, I was skeptical about the thing getting out of sync, but it has
worked surprisingly well for everything I've tried it on.

[plyons10]

Originally posted by mpsan
Can we use a code that is not assigned to a key? I mean, I have power off on the vcr (0614) set to sleep. Any way to assign it to a nonkey...perhaps I need to read phantom keys, etc.


Bingo!!! That's exactly a perfect phantom key application I believe!

[plyons10]

Himey... That device upgrade is available at the Yahoo JP1 group. It's just a small simple text file that I'd be happy to email to you if you don't feel like registering. In fact, I may try to PM it to you. But you are going to have to learn JP1 anyway in order to get full functionality of the receiver.

As a little tease it looks to me like this upgrade has everything from fader settings to equalizer presets to LCD panel dimmer!

Mpsan... wouldn't it be great if I could send Himey this device upgrade from a Gmail account?

[sfhub]

Originally posted by mpsan
Can we use a code that is not assigned to a key? I mean, I have power off on the vcr (0614) set to sleep. Any way to assign it to a nonkey...perhaps I need to read phantom keys, etc.
Sure thing. You can use IR functions that aren't assigned to physical
buttons. There are already predefined placeholders in KM for DiscreteON
and DiscreteOFF. I'd imagine RM has the same. When loaded into IR,
they will show up as Keymoves for the DiscreteON and DiscreteOFF
placeholders.

Within IR there are tons of places you can use for temporary storage,
including shift, xshift, and normal variations of all the choices. Lot's of
times people use the xshift variations to store stuff they don't need to
execute physically on the remote (ie stuff that will only be called within
macros)

[mpsan]

Great...someday I will stop playing and actually use these remotes. :-)

Originally posted by plyons10
Bingo!!! That's exactly a perfect phantom key application I believe!

[mpsan]

Do you need an account?


Originally posted by plyons10
Himey... That device upgrade is available at the Yahoo JP1 group. It's just a small simple text file that I'd be happy to email to you if you don't feel like registering. In fact, I may try to PM it to you. But you are going to have to learn JP1 anyway in order to get full functionality of the receiver.

As a little tease it looks to me like this upgrade has everything from fader settings to equalizer presets to LCD panel dimmer!

Mpsan... wouldn't it be great if I could send Himey this device upgrade from a Gmail account?

[mpsan]

Yup, that is where I saw discrete on, etc. Have you played with RM, I like it a lot and so far it is good. It is an app not a spreadsheet. I hate spreadsheets (at Home). I create and update them all day. Have some that take 12 minutes to open. One of them a coworker opened, sorted 3 ways, saved and it took 2.5 HOURS!



Originally posted by sfhub
Sure thing. You can use IR functions that aren't assigned to physical
buttons. There are already predefined placeholders in KM for DiscreteON
and DiscreteOFF. I'd imagine RM has the same. When loaded into IR,
they will show up as Keymoves for the DiscreteON and DiscreteOFF
placeholders.

Within IR there are tons of places you can use for temporary storage,
including shift, xshift, and normal variations of all the choices. Lot's of
times people use the xshift variations to store stuff they don't need to
execute physically on the remote (ie stuff that will only be called within
macros)

[mpsan]

SFHUB, the LDKP text says to copy code from the end of the file to use. However the only thing there for the 2116 is ext1. Is that what you used or is that in case you did not install everything in the ext2.txt file all at once as I will.

[plyons10]

mpsan.. yes... !!!! I could use an invite.

Sent you a PM.

[sfhub]

LDKP placeholder device and LDKP protocol are contained in the ext2
IR file you loaded. You shouldn't need to copy anything.

Look for the MISC/1106 device and the associated protocol $1F9.

[plyons10]

Jeff... I still don't know which Onkyo device you are trying, but I did have a similar problem with the Onkyo TX-SR600 RCVR code.

It's setup as RCVR device 1135. But after I upload to the remote, I get device 1023 on my remote (including when I then download back to IR).

Hmmmm.... this is similar to what you were experiencing no?

Let's start with which Onkyo device you are trying to use.

[plyons10]

Also... are you (Jeff) using RM or KeyMaster? I'm using the spreadsheet because, while I do use them at work, none of them take 2 hours to save (see above)!

[mpsan]

It was me, Dave, who creates big Sheets, and use Rm.

Originally posted by plyons10
Also... are you (Jeff) using RM or KeyMaster? I'm using the spreadsheet because, while I do use them at work, none of them take 2 hours to save (see above)!

[Cubfan]

Anybody got an extra one of these they wanna part with? I have the one that doesn't do RF... actually, I have 3 of them. However, now I need the one that will radio to the other room, since that's where my components are. I'd happily trade with my non-RF version plus some coin.

[mpsan]

Check the email address you gave me.


Originally posted by plyons10
mpsan.. yes... !!!! I could use an invite.

Sent you a PM.

[plyons10]

Are we all square now mp3? (I know it was you with the big, er, uh, sheets, but I wanted to know which program Jeff D was using).

[plyons10]

Clubfan.. your done... flat trade.

I like the look and feel of the 2116/7 and I can't use any of mine in the basement lest they trigger false commands upstairs!!! Plus... what the heck, I'm long these puppies anyway.

Sent you a PM.

[mpsan]

Yup, all set, and of course I would use Java based stuff! :-)

Originally posted by plyons10
Are we all square now mp3? (I know it was you with the big, er, uh, sheets, but I wanted to know which program Jeff D was using).

[mpsan]

Well, so far so good on the scan and setting the clock. The transport keys are ok but not volume. I bet what happens is the phantom1 sets all the keys but has NO DEV vcr starts with vcr and then calls phantom1...but phantom 1 never gives a device, so, when on vcr it sees transport as vcr transport, but it sees vol as vcr vol which is NOT OK. So I can play, but need to add CA, I thought I did that. Next time I will do a careful config in RM and save the darn thing!

Yup, macro is cool. My vcr-phantom1-dev_tv-volxxx-dev_vcr works great.

[Jeff D]

Peter I was using the SS and then RM to add the device in.

The device is Onkyo_TX-SR601_RCVR-1135.txt, this is NOT the device I have, I've actually got a TX_NR900 but I figured the 601 was the closest match if they are sharing command sets.

Is that the info you were looking for?

[sfhub]

Originally posted by mpsan
The transport keys are ok but not volume. I bet what happens is the phantom1 sets all the keys but has NO DEV vcr starts with vcr and then calls phantom1...but phantom 1 never gives a device, so, when on vcr it sees transport as vcr transport, but it sees vol as vcr vol which is NOT OK.
If you want to implement Volume Punch Through, you just add the following
to copy phantom1 to phantom2 and add this to the end:

DEV_TV; SET_VOL_KEYS; Dev_Cancel

and remove SET_VOL_KEYS from the beginning of phantom2. DEV_TV
above could be DEV_AUD, or whatever your volume device is.

I don't remember, maybe there already is a phantom2 that does this for
you, it's been so long since I worked with the base ext2 config.

Now for devices that you want VPT, use phantom2, for devices where
you want volume to control the devices volume, use phantom1.

[mpsan]

I did this instead.
for VCR
DEV_VCR;phantom1;DEV_TV;SET_VOL_KEYS;DEV_VCR

Works great.

Originally posted by sfhub
If you want to implement Volume Punch Through, you just add the following
to copy phantom1 to phantom2 and add this to the end:

DEV_TV; SET_VOL_KEYS; Dev_Cancel

and remove SET_VOL_KEYS from the beginning of phantom2. DEV_TV
above could be DEV_AUD, or whatever your volume device is.

I don't remember, maybe there already is a phantom2 that does this for
you, it's been so long since I worked with the base ext2 config.

Now for devices that you want VPT, use phantom2, for devices where
you want volume to control the devices volume, use phantom1.

[plyons10]

Originally posted by Jeff D
Peter I was using the SS and then RM to add the device in.

The device is Onkyo_TX-SR601_RCVR-1135.txt, this is NOT the device I have, I've actually got a TX_NR900 but I figured the 601 was the closest match if they are sharing command sets.

Is that the info you were looking for?

That's what I was looking for, yes. I'll try again tonight with that upgrade.

I'll have to look at RM again, since it's not clear to me that you actually need RM if you're using Keymaster to load the device upgrade. You can go right from keymaster to IR to upoload (maybe that's what you meant).

When I slow down a little and think about it, maybe I'll see something I'm mising, but it is funny that I'm getting a similar result to you--and I've added device upgrades before without a hitch.

I look at JP1 like every 9 months or so and I feel like I'm right back at the bottom of the learning curve every time I pick it up again.

[Jeff D]

Sorry Peter, my bad if I mentioned RM. I'm going directly from SS to IR. I think I've been messing up app names. :(

[jlv]

I think I just picked up the last 15-2117 in central Massachusetts today!

[Jeff D]

After looking ALL over the bay area a few weeks back I was told here were no more. THen last week I was talking to a friend (he's been into JP1 for years) and told him about this clearance.... He is in the bay area too, so I figured he would be out of luck. Yesterday he emails saying he scored one. I guess that one remote just slipped through the cracks. He said it took the rep 5 minutes to find it. They're still out there!

[plyons10]

Jeff... I won't have time to test this again until Saturday.

However, given that I got the same result with a different Onkyo upgrade, I think it actually means that we are both doing the same WRONG thing in the KeyMaster spreadsheet with this upgrade. I'm not exactly sure WHY I think it means that... but I am pretty certain.

I'll try again when I'm home with JP1 and my remotes.

[himey]

mpsan
Thanks
I used code 1518 under receiver's and the power worked but not anything else. However it was able to "learn" the other buttons with this code...

plyons10
Thanks for the help. I plan on getting a JP1 cable very soon and I will learn the in's and out's of JP1! I am coming off learning about usbirt/girder and my brain is still a little "fried"...Thanks again to all,Eric

[Teddydog]

I stumbled across this thread late (over the past weekend), but was able to locate a couple of these near me (Tacoma, WA) yesterday. I'm playing with one now, but all my real gear is still in storage awaiting the new house (Sept 30 can't get here fast enough). I'm going to try to play around with JP1 until then so I'm ready when the time comes. I'm a bit concerned about getting my Onkyo 838 receiver coded in, but the questions will have to wait. Oh...I don't wait well. Anyway...thanks for the heads up!

Rob

[sfhub]

Originally posted by himey
mpsan
Thanks
I used code 1518 under receiver's and the power worked but not anything else. However it was able to "learn" the other buttons with this code...

If you can learn the codes for the Onkyo, you can almost definitely create
a custom device upgrade.

Jeff, I lost track, did you get your problem fixed, if not, what is the problem.
I remember you mentioned something about the onkyo upgrade not
taking, but I don't know if that got fixed already.

If you send me your IR file and a description of the problem I can take a
look.

[Cubfan]

pylons: Check your PM. I just replied... sorry it took so long. Thanks for doing this!!

[Jeff D]

sfhub, nope didn't get it working. Peter was going to test it this weekend. If you want to try the file name is listed above comes from the yahoo group. All I did was use that file in the SS and then use the SS to export the data to IR. I assigned the device to my audio button and uploaded that to the remote. On the restart the remote reverts back to 1023 or 1024 for the code on the audio button. It's like the changes aren't taking.

I was using the TX601 remote even though I have a NR900 receiver. I figured it was a good place to start, but the remotes themselves are pretty different. I really need a codeset for an 898, or 900. That I feel I may have to construct by hand.


BTW, OT but while on the subject of IR... I was helping a friend a few weeks back with his learning remote, I believe it's the remote that came with his sony STR-DA5000ES. This remote couldn't learn the remote codes for his cable box motorola HD decoder, most likely the 5100, but may be a newer one. I think it's silver and the remote was blue and red buttons. Anyone know does this box have a "strange" IR stream that the sony remote may not understand?

[mpsan]

You will then have time to make the cable. I worked with a guy who went to Dupont. he was transferred from Intel. Not sure if he is still there or not.



Originally posted by Teddydog
I stumbled across this thread late (over the past weekend), but was able to locate a couple of these near me (Tacoma, WA) yesterday. I'm playing with one now, but all my real gear is still in storage awaiting the new house (Sept 30 can't get here fast enough). I'm going to try to play around with JP1 until then so I'm ready when the time comes. I'm a bit concerned about getting my Onkyo 838 receiver coded in, but the questions will have to wait. Oh...I don't wait well. Anyway...thanks for the heads up!

Rob

[mpsan]

SFHUB, I will now have to look into the pause macro. My Bedroom TV works well with the 0;2;tv/video to get me to input 1. I had to add phantom5;phantom5 to it so it had a pause to go from ch2 to input 1. However my Den TV, same brand different model, goes to ch 2. The input command must come in too fast for it. I may add a pause macro when I look into how it works.

[sfhub]

Originally posted by mpsan
SFHUB, I will now have to look into the pause macro. My Bedroom TV works well with the 0;2;tv/video to get me to input 1. I had to add phantom5;phantom5 to it so it had a pause to go from ch2 to input 1. However my Den TV, same brand different model, goes to ch 2. The input command must come in too fast for it. I may add a pause macro when I look into how it works.
I think there are a few ways to add a pause. Pause protocol works but
the pause seems to be much less than the documentation would lead you
to think.

Also you can add buttons which are not bound to any function to your
macro, which I believe will add some delay.

Also the FAQ shows this:
http://www.hifi-remote.com/ofa/faq.shtml#[1.17]

[mpsan]

Well, that is why I added 2 phantom5's. Maybe I will add 3.


Originally posted by sfhub
I think there are a few ways to add a pause. Pause protocol works but
the pause seems to be much less than the documentation would lead you
to think.

Also you can add buttons which are not bound to any function to your
macro, which I believe will add some delay.

Also the FAQ shows this:
http://www.hifi-remote.com/ofa/faq.shtml#[1.17]

[sfhub]

Originally posted by Jeff D
sfhub, nope didn't get it working. Peter was going to test it this weekend. If you want to try the file name is listed above comes from the yahoo group. All I did was use that file in the SS and then use the SS to export the data to IR. I assigned the device to my audio button and uploaded that to the remote. On the restart the remote reverts back to 1023 or 1024 for the code on the audio button. It's like the changes aren't taking.

BTW what is SS? KM and IR I know, but not SS.

That particular device upgrade is built using device combiner custom
protocol. This protocol is not available in the base 15-2117. When you
add the device upgrade into IR, you need to cut/paste *both* the device
upgrade section (in KM) into IR device upgrade *and* the protocol upgrade
section (in KM) into IR protocol upgrade section.

If you only add the device upgrade but not the protocol upgrade, you will
see the behavior you are describing.

Also you might try changing the device type in KM to Amp instead of Tuner.
I don't know if there is any difference, but I use Amp for my Onkyo upgrade.

[Jeff D]

hub, I'll give that a shot, I think your described method is what I was doing. I'll 2x check the steps again.

SS - SpreadSheet... KM, Keymap-Master? Sorry for calling a spread sheet by its abbreviated generic name. =)


Hmmm looks like I screwed up the protocal step. I just checked the protocal tab and there was nothing there... doh! Fixing that and it works!

Thanks!

Now I need to figure out how to rearrange these things so they make more sense to me. =)

[sfhub]

Originally posted by Jeff D
Now I need to figure out how to rearrange these things so they make more sense to me. =)
Not sure if you are referencing the ordering of the keymoves and macros.
It is not obvious, but you can drag and drop the rows (in IR) to order them
so the related stuff are grouped together.

[mpsan]

Well, I got both T and V's working. :-)
I had added a ch+ and then phantom 5;phantom4;phantom5 to get both to work.

I did most moves in RM, but a few I forgot and put in ir itself. Which way gives me more memory, or doesn't it matter?

Also, can I do anything about that darn light toggle? My wife hits it to see keys then it goes out 'til she hits it again!!!

[sfhub]

Originally posted by mpsan
I did most moves in RM, but a few I forgot and put in ir itself. Which way gives me more memory, or doesn't it matter?

Also, can I do anything about that darn light toggle? My wife hits it to see keys then it goes out 'til she hits it again!!!
From memory standpoint, it doesn't matter. It's mainly from a maintenance
standpoint, most people like to keep their keymoves associated with the
device upgrade so they could duplicate all the functions if they needed to
use the device upgrade a second time. Unfortunately the special protocol
keymoves like LKP need to be entered in IR and cannot be stored with
the device upgrade.

Are you talking about the backlight?

You can turn on backlight by pressing the light button. From that point
on it will turn on whenever you press a button. You can also define in
IR how long the backlight should stay on (see right section on first IR
screen). Now if you don't want backlight to come on whenever you
press a button, press light button to turn on, then press again to turn off,
from that point on, light will not turn on when pressing buttons.

You should know ahead of time, the backlight greatly affects battery
life. I try to define my layouts so I can use the remote in the dark w/o
backlight. There are certain buttons you can use as position checks
when using in dark. ie center of rocker ch+/-, vol+/-, the 5 button is
convex, empty space below the zero button, select button, etc.

[mpsan]

I know about the backlight and light button. What happens is it is "enabled" and when my wife presses a key the light goes on. OK. But when she watches something and it is dark, and does not know what key to press, and she hits the light button. It does turn the light on, of course, but then from that point on the keys will not do that 'til she "activates" it again.

Anyway, now that all seems to be working, I may try to get fancy and play with LKP. I think my upgrade memory says 166 free so not sure just how much I can do. However my move/macro is 755 free so I can still play a lot I guess.


Originally posted by sfhub
From memory standpoint, it doesn't matter. It's mainly from a maintenance
standpoint, most people like to keep their keymoves associated with the
device upgrade so they could duplicate all the functions if they needed to
use the device upgrade a second time. Unfortunately the special protocol
keymoves like LKP need to be entered in IR and cannot be stored with
the device upgrade.

Are you talking about the backlight?

You can turn on backlight by pressing the light button. From that point
on it will turn on whenever you press a button. You can also define in
IR how long the backlight should stay on (see right section on first IR
screen). Now if you don't want backlight to come on whenever you
press a button, press light button to turn on, then press again to turn off,
from that point on, light will not turn on when pressing buttons.

You should know ahead of time, the backlight greatly affects battery
life. I try to define my layouts so I can use the remote in the dark w/o
backlight. There are certain buttons you can use as position checks
when using in dark. ie center of rocker ch+/-, vol+/-, the 5 button is
convex, empty space below the zero button, select button, etc.