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Lawrence_Chiu
11-30-04, 07:07 AM
I apologize if this is a dumb question. I was at Home Depot to check out furring strips and the smallest size is 1 x 2. Measuring them, I found that the dimensions are actually 3/4" x 1-1/2". The Linacoustic/Insulshield is 1" thick. My question is, when putting the furring strips on the wall, would the narrow face be attached (depth of 1-1/2") or the wide face (3/4")? It seems either way, there would be a problem since it is either not deep enough or too deep.

bapenguin
11-30-04, 07:15 AM
i would get some 1x3's and use the wide face against the wall. This way you get more support and backing. Does the INsulshield have any give to it? 1/4" isn't too bad if it has some give....

BIGmouthinDC
11-30-04, 08:35 AM
A lotta guys here rip their own 1 x 1 1/2 strips by cutting up some 2x4's or 2x6's.

Another solution would be to find something 1/4 inch thick that you can add to the 3/4 thick 1x2's.

Best Buy Guy
11-30-04, 09:18 AM
I'd agree that ripping your own is the way to go. If you don't have the tools for that, Home Depot does sell stuff that is the actual measurements. They have an aisle where they sell boards. Oak, maple, cherry, poplar, pine, etc. You should be able to find some decent priced stuff.

Mr.Tim
11-30-04, 09:24 AM
1x2's are the work of the devil. As soon as you stick a nail in one it splits.. And that's after you threw out 3 of them becuase they looked like hockey sticks :)

If you need a full inch just get 5/4x3 or 5/4x4. Usually made of spruce, a full inch deep and wide enough to accept a nail without splitting.

When you rip them yourself you can rip fir lumber, which is even better.

Tim

Lawrence_Chiu
11-30-04, 12:43 PM
From searching the avsforum messages, some people are saying that 1" Insulshield is actually 3/4" and that 1" Linacoustic is really 1". Can anyone confirm? It would be great if this is true, since I could just go with 3/4"-de-facto Insulshield.

Toxarch
11-30-04, 04:35 PM
My permacote linacoustic is 1" thick. I ripped 2x10s for my firring strips. And yes, there are very few that don't curve after they are ripped.

Stew4msu
11-30-04, 11:12 PM
If your HD is a home builders store, it may not have a wide selection of furring strips. Neither of the HD's by my house had them, I had to go to a contractors store (bigger store) about 15 miles away. At this store they had 1X2's, 1X3's, 1X4's and 1X6's.



Stew

blipszyc
11-30-04, 11:15 PM
For anyone who has used 1" Linacoustic with 3/4" furring strips, have you had any issues? Wouldn't the stretched fabric hold back the linacoustic?

blipszyc
12-30-04, 03:52 PM
Anyone---I'm getting close to this phase and want to know if I should try to search out exact material or not?

Geordon
12-31-04, 08:47 AM
I used TheaterShield+ 1" thick rolls. I set the table saw up to rip 1" strips from 2x4s, and have cut 100's of linear feet of them. Have not moved the fence on the saw in months. In my experience, 3/4" strips could be a problem when covering the TS+, as it is pretty close to the full inch after it puffs back out.

If linacoustic is anything like TS+, the fabric will do nothing to "hold back" the insulation. TS+ has a still woven fabric over dense fiberglass. This will be no match against the fabric.

My suggestion is to beg, borrow, or steal a table saw, and rip a big stack of 2x4s. You will have fairly straight, correctly sized, and easy to staple strips. A second suggestion for any furring strips, is to get a cheap can of black paint and paint the faces of the firring strips. This will eliminate the shine through when taking flash or intense lighting photos.

bob md
12-31-04, 10:56 AM
Originally posted by Geordon
A second suggestion for any furring strips, is to get a cheap can of black paint and paint the faces of the firring strips. This will eliminate the shine through when taking flash or intense lighting photos.
Good idea, thanks!

Schmo
12-31-04, 02:38 PM
[i]<snip>
My suggestion is to beg, borrow, or steal a table saw, and rip a big stack of 2x4s. You will have fairly straight, correctly sized, and easy to staple strips. A second suggestion for any furring strips, is to get a cheap can of black paint and paint the faces of the firring strips. This will eliminate the shine through when taking flash or intense lighting photos. [/B]

So, if I understand you correctly, each 2x4 should make about 3 strips of 1" x ~1.5", correct?

PCARACER
12-31-04, 03:10 PM
My local lumber yard had Redwood firring strips made of 10 inch pieces of wood glued together. These were your typical 1x2 that were actually 3/4 x 1 1/2.

I actually liked this as the redwood took nails easily with out splitting. I used a nail gun and not a hammer.

Yes the OC fr 703 did stick out just a little but not much. Here is why I liked that. Once I stapled the fabric on and then nailed the trim on and the chair rail, the fact that the strip was just slightly more recessed than the fiberglass sucked it down tight into the fiberglass and made it look perfect. No gaps, and there is no visable differance in height. It definatly was not a problem. Now if you were not going to cover it with any trim then having it match would probably be better.

Kirk
12-31-04, 08:33 PM
IMO, if you have a table saw rip your own firring strips. It's cheap and easy. Your firring strips should be screwed and glued to the drywall, with your screw holes predrilled and countersunk.

PAP
12-31-04, 09:52 PM
2x4 is really a 1.75 x 3.5" board. I've been getting 2 1.75 (minus saw kerf) x 1" board per.

Geordon
01-02-05, 03:52 PM
Schmo, yes I get three 1" thick strips from a 2x4 (1.5" x 3.5" -- PAP must get some weird stuff in Ohio), and a scrap strip. I rip two from one edge and one from other.

chrispy
01-03-05, 08:56 AM
I made 1x2 strips by combining 1/2" plywood with 5/8" plywood. Since both are slightly less than their dimensions, they come to just about exactly 1" when combined:

http://www.chrispitude.net/view.php?album=theater&pic=2002_01_13-f.jpg&dispsize=800&start=72&picindex=75

I cut the 2" strips first, then glued a few at a time. Once ripped, the strips did start to curve a bit. One nice thing about this approach is that I was able to orient the strips so that both of the center sections bowed away from each other. After gluing them up, the resulting strip was very flat, straight, and of the precise thickness I wanted. Plus, being plywood, you can hammer and screw into the resulting strips as much as you want, with no fears of cracking or splintering. It holds staples great too.

It might be a bit more work than ripping 2x's, but ripping a 4x8 sheet of plywood with a circular saw is faster than ripping 2x on a table saw, with less waste. The gluing wasn't too bad, since I clamped up a few at a time.

I used Owens Corning 475 rigid duct board on the side walls, and rolled Linacoustic on the front wall. Both were a perfect match to the 1" strips.

Hope this helps,

- Chris