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t9mike
01-06-05, 10:03 PM
I've moved into a house with an Elan MAC24 whole house audio system. I'd like to use the in-ceiling speakers in some rooms in both "whole house" mode as well as being driven from a cheap DVD/receiver combos in the rooms.

I'm ripping up the carpet and doing some sub-floor work as part of some improvements anyway so I think I should be able access the speaker wire. My question is could I simply tie together the Elan-sourced speaker input and my receiver's speaker input and send that to the speaker.

My thought was that, so as long as the Elan volume is turned down to zero, I will hear the receiver. And as long as the receiver is muted or off I will hear the Elan whole house input. My concern is impedance matching (I am an audio neophyte) and any overloading issues should both speaker inputs be on simultaneously. I do not listen to music/movies very loudly so I did not think the later would be an issue.

The speakers are M?525W and M?650W models (uncertain exact models).

The other option is a wall-mounted A/B switch but I wanted to avoid this. Any other options I should consider?

Another question. Are there sub-woofers that accept speaker inputs? Could I split off the speaker inputs to such a sub-woofer and it would give me a little extra bass for both my in-room receivers and the whole house mode?

Thanks,
-Mike

robertmee
01-06-05, 10:47 PM
I'm no audio expert, but I would strongly recommend the A/B switch to isolate the two and prevent equipment damage.

There are passive subs that take speaker inputs, but they typically require more power than you are probably sending from your zoned controller. I'm not familiar with the Elan spec's, but the multizone amps usually spit out power in the 25 watt range. Most people drive their passive subs with separate amps in the 100 watt range. I'd recommend going with an active sub and connect it to your inside room amp only, and live without the sub effect for the whole house ambient music.

Again, let me qualify my answer with "I ain't no expert". Hopefully one will chime in.

Good Luck

Brian B
01-07-05, 02:03 AM
Like the man said...use the A/B switch.

But I don't see any reason why you can't hook a powered sub after the switch and before the speakers and use it for both systems. (Assuming the sub has high level inputs.)

B.

t9mike
01-07-05, 09:18 AM
Like the man said...use the A/B switch.


Thanks Brian and robertmee. I'll do some research on IR and automatic switchers and report back. After a few minutes of Google time this looks promising:

http://www.rfsystems.com/si-2.htm


But I don't see any reason why you can't hook a powered sub after the switch and before the speakers and use it for both systems. (Assuming the sub has high level inputs.)


That's what I was thinking, but am such a novice I did not know the term. So I'm looking for a sub that can take "high level" inputs. I think 100W sub output is plenty. Any recommended models or manufacturers I should check out?

Thanks again,
-Mike

robertmee
01-07-05, 02:41 PM
Originally posted by Brian B
Like the man said...use the A/B switch.

But I don't see any reason why you can't hook a powered sub after the switch and before the speakers and use it for both systems. (Assuming the sub has high level inputs.)

B.

See....Told ya I wasn't any expert....I didn't know there was such an animal. I've always hooked up active (IE powered) subs with the low level input.

Brian B
01-07-05, 09:46 PM
You'll have to ask in the speaker (audio?) section of the forum. There are lots of different subs that will work. You just need to make sure that it has the proper inputs. Size and price will most likely be the determining factor for a recommendation.

Brian

t9mike
01-16-05, 10:25 AM
Originally posted by me
Thanks Brian and robertmee. I'll do some research on IR and automatic switchers and report back. After a few minutes of Google time this looks promising:

http://www.rfsystems.com/si-2.htm



I purchased one of these. Very well built and small, but a little too complicated and "touchy". I'm going to go with an in-wall A/B switch.

Thanks for all the help,
-Mike