Finally got a 34XS955

[Sgt Makak]

Finally! I got in a clearance sale (salesman said it was discountinued, don't if it means they won't carry it anymre of if Sony won't produce it anymore) for 2400$ CAN, last new in box in the store.

I'm really happy about this. The set will be delivered in one week.

So, what do I need to get started? I plan to get the TV ISF'd in a while. For the moment I'll probably get DVE Digital Video Essentials (if I'm not mistaken it's easier to use than AVIA).

Also, I have a Magicker from Ikea as a TV stand. Does anyone have any idea how to make the stand mobile? The TV weighs 200 pounds so when I get new gear (like an Xbox 360), it will be a pain in the ass to move the stand to make the new connections. Any suggestions?

[nick2003]

"So, what do I need to get started? I plan to get the TV ISF'd in a while. For the moment I'll probably get DVE Digital Video Essentials (if I'm not mistaken it's easier to use than AVIA)."

If your geting it ISF'd i don't think i'd invest in a dve disc. You'll want to set the picture mode to Pro, Set sharpness to the middle, Color temp neutral and turn ClearEdge VM off. If you plan to get it ISF'd fairly fast then its really not worth waisting the time doing the service menu adjustments yourself as it can get VERY time consuming to get it correct, Basically you make adjustments and watch the tv a while and keep going back in the service menu to fine tune more. You might want to adjust overscan and you will probably want to adjust the red color decoder to get rid of red push but i'd leave the rest to the calibrator.

"Also, I have a Magicker from Ikea as a TV stand. Does anyone have any idea how to make the stand mobile? The TV weighs 200 pounds so when I get new gear (like an Xbox 360), it will be a pain in the ass to move the stand to make the new connections. Any suggestions?"

I'd check the specifications on that stand and make sure it can hold the weight of the tv. To get to the inputs on my set i just slide the tv a little bit on the stand.

Enjoy your new TV! You made an excellent choice.

[Sgt Makak]

I bought the stand because it can hold the Sony's weight so theyre shouldn't be any problems.

[Tom C]

[QUOTE=Sgt Makak]So, what do I need to get started? I plan to get the TV ISF'd in a while. For the moment I'll probably get DVE Digital Video Essentials (if I'm not mistaken it's easier to use than AVIA).[/QUOTE]

I addition to what nick2003 said, turn the contrast down to under 50%. They come from the factory at 100% and that is bad news for CRTs.

Also, AVIA is easier to use, but DVE is in 16x9 so it'll match your set.

[artchur]

So DVE is better then Avia for 16:9 sets? I just ordered Avia yesterday, but I still have time to switch to DVE... which is also 30 dollars cheaper. I don't have a 5.1 surround sound system to tinker with either, which I believe is part of avia's disc.

[nick2003]

Setting the set to pro mode turns the contrast down to a good starting point.

I haven't used avia that much but the navigation is easier then dve. They both have 5.1 calibration. Avia is also a couple years older then dve. If avia is for 4:3 sets i'd definatly get dve.

[DSperber]

[QUOTE=nick2003]Set sharpness to the middle[/QUOTE]My comments pertain to the 34XBR960, but from what I understand the two sets are very similar internally, differing in various accessories and bells and whistles that are separate from tweaks. I hope this is true, and that my suggestions below are relevant to your set.


I recommend sharpness=MIN for all HD inputs.

Sharpness is a digitally-created artificial enhancement. It does not represent content that is actually present in the source data.

I have sharpness=20 for my SD inputs, only to overcome the blurring that seems to result on SD content if sharpness=MIN is used for SD. But for all HD inputs ( I have 480p DVD on INPUT5 and 720p/1080i on INPUT6) I have sharpness=MIN, so that I only see what is present in the content.

Also, it's really unfair for us to try and pass along our own settings (either user menu or service menu), as your set (and your personal tastes) will no doubt require its own unique adjustments. And if you get it ISF'd, even more reason why probably nothing we've done will be applicable to your situation. Also, it's a bit premature to try and push you into the service menu to begin tweaking.

Nevertheless, in my own experience aside from Sony tech visits to apply magnets to the back of the picture tube to address convergence and curvature problems, the next most significant adjustment which I learned from this forum was the elimination of "red push" (very noticeable on virtually all XBR960's out of the box) by adjustments to four items in the 2170P-4 group of the service menu. The following values were suggested, and I have used them, with DRAMATIC results:

13 (RYR ) 8 -> 13
14 (RYB ) 9 -> 15
15 (GYR ) 9 -> 5
16 (GYB ) 6 -> 4

Of course "your mileage may vary", but you should at least try these out. Very significant improvement in color accuracy.

Note that this goes along with my user-menu values for HD inputs of picture 35, brightness 32, color 31, hue 0. I have also set PRO mode, color temp = COOL, Clear edge VM = OFF, and Advanced -> color axis = DEFAULT and mode memory = ON. I know, I just said we shouldn't try to pass on our own settings, but I couldn't resist... at least for color, brightness, contrast, tint, and "red-push".

Of course everybody's settings are slightly different, as each XBR960 is slightly different and everyone's personal viewing tastes are slightly different. Also, your DVD player and other HD sources may differ in their component video or DVI/HDMi output, so you're well advised to try and use different inputs on the XBR960 so that you can then adjust each input uniquely as appropriate. But you might certainly find it easier to at least start from one fundamental set of values for each input, and then adjust up or down depending on that particular source device's characteristics for that input. At the very least, I'd recommend putting your 480p DVD player on one component video input (or if upconverting then use HDMI), and 720p/1080i STB/DVR/D-VHS on the other component video input (through a component video switch, if you need to).

You'll find there's virtually no visual difference between component video and HDMI on this set (assuming proper adjustments on each input). So save your HDMI input for upconverting DVD or HDDVD/BRD.

When you finally get things "right", you will think you're watching TV in 3D. And live shows (like Leno, Conan, SNL, in-studio segments at Olympics, etc.) will have you gasping. Like looking through a window frame, with no glass in it, into a box where all these people are actually living and talking to you, it's that realistic. You will not see dots or scan lines... it will look like film, or photographic prints.

[Sgt Makak]

Thank you all for your help. All this information should make it easier to readily enjoy my TV.